Removing old paint

loco,

More information is needed. What make of older tin are you working with. Also, sometimes you might be better taking everything off. There are so many unknowns.

Common paint thinner (i.e. mineral spirits) won't touch dried-on enamel. I've had some success with lacquer thinner, but you have to be careful as it may attack the underlying finish. Test it on a spot that doesn't show. If you decide to try using lacquer thinner or some other solvent, DO NOT soak the part. Wipe on a small amount of the solvent and see what happens. Getting an overcoat off without destroying what is underneath is a time-consuming job. 

I think this will vary, depending on what kind of tinplate your have, and even when it was originally painted.  However, for the good of the cause, I removed silver paint from an Ives cast iron engine by using very very fine steel wool and WD40.  It easily removed the overspray, and with a bit of tedious, and careful work, also removed the silver in one area where it was pretty solid.  I was pleased with the result.  The original paint remained bright, and the stamped on markings were also undamaged.  You have to keep the steel wool wet with the WD40 while you work. If the steel wool is dry, it will scratch the paint.  I have no idea if this would work on the item you have, so proceed with caution!

I guess I will just have to experiment.  The tin plate is an old Japanese battery operated tank from the 60's.  I painted it camouflage when I was a kid (along with some trains) and am just now thinking about restoring it.

Thanks for the suggestions.

gj

I don't know about Japanese lithography, but I do know from experience that common rubbing alcohol will remove Marx lithography - and it won't even touch Testors enamel paint.

So it's the worst of both worlds, but I wish you luck.

MEK on a cotton ball has removed overpaint for me. BUT have water handy to wash the MEK if it starts to eat the original paint.

AZ Tin

I think mineral spirits might be the safest approach.

It should work much slower.

Watch for color change on you rag constantly.

When it starts coming off fast enough to worry, stop and let it set up again, work a heavier area next time.

Exposure time will make a difference.

If the Testors enamel is rock hard and wont be budged, then move to MEK/lacquer thinner. /but beware, they are "hot". They work fast and deep.

Do little bits with a barely dampened rag that wont wet the surface much. Then let it set up again for a day or so again, then repeat.

 All the while hoping the thing isn't covered in weak water based paint under the Testors.

Good luck, and let us know how you do.

Brake fluid is one of the old timer tricks to remove overpaint.

That's poor mans paint stripper in automotive!

Because of soak, and low evaporation I'd be wary of that one enough to have soap and water right there at least.

 It likes to get under the paint at scratches too. Like penetrating oil.

It needs a good washing or sometimes solvent after to be removed 100% too.

Fresh paint will immediately fisheye on it.

It is what I would call a slow to medium as far as stripping speed under the paint goes.

I've seen it lift inches of older auto enamel in a day via one deep scratch where on the top it could sit a week.