Replacing MTH curved wire tether?

Caution:

This will kill warranty and may limit the curves the engine will work on.

However, I have done it on my Imperial Railking Big Boy. It no longer travels on O-31.

You need the extension Tether from a Diesel B unit to add to the end of the existing tether which gets coiled in the tender. I forget the Tether #, hopefully someone will chime in.

Then you must commit horrendous surgery to the front of the tender and cut a slot for the tether to ride side to side in so the engine can make the corners.

Luckily the Front of the Big Boy tender is recessed so it doesn't show.

The slot centerline must match the height of the Plug in the engine, be careful.

WARNING:

Some Tenders do not allow for this due to items mounted in the area.

some tenders have no room for coiling the old tether, Then you need a Tether that can a) Plug in directly OR B) You splice wires, Yikes - one error and TOASTED Boards

As Russell states above, replacing the curved "snake" with a straight "snake" will seriously limit the curve negotiation of any steam locomotive. I have modified a few of my MTH models, but also had to seriously enlarge the hole in the tender that the "snake" comes out off, in order to allow for VERY easy movement in and out when going around curves. 

Robert, I did this on a NYC Niagara. I did open up the tunnel in the tender to allow the cord to move freely. I have not yet slotted the holes in the engine connector which will allow the connector to swivel some. Minimum curves are 072 and this engine will handle it no problem.

Installing the straight tether allowed installing of an engine to tender apron.

Before:

After:

Pete

Forum member Loco-Dan has done this surgery on some of his engines too.  I need to do it on my Imperial 0-8-0 Switcher.  That big loop really looks ugly on it. I say go ahead and do it.

.....

Dennis

I've done this on a number of locomotives.  You do need sufficient movement to keep it from pulling itself out of the mating plug.  On some combinations, it's just not that practical, for others it works very well.

For many engines especially PS-2 3V, all you need to do is open the tender and look at the external harness.  Internally it is a straight plug.  If it has full insulation just swap ends.  If not full insulation order a BC-0000217 (usually comes full insulation) and use it.

I do recommend opening the exit cutout so that there is lateral and fwd/aft play to prevent the straight end from pulling out of the receptacle on the engine.  G

Thanks to Norton for the fine photos and all the advice from those who responded.

Question: what did you replace the "curved" tender with? Is there an MTH part# to order the straight one?

Many thanks!

Robert did you read my post above yours?  G