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Ok I may be calling this the wrong term but what Im wanting to know ( and I did search ) is there any problems with train direction when you loop the track back into itself with a switch? Im running track down a shelf layout and at the ends it will loop back onto itself and just want to make sure there are no conflicts with direction when it circles around and starts off the other way. And if there are none is the a way to wire the switch to trip itself once the train is inside the loop so I wouldnt have to swith it everytime it passes through. I know this is simple to most but 25 years ago in HO this was an insulating matter, but Im thinking the powered center rail should be ok with it. Am I wrong? BTW the track will run 16 feet then turn onto the next wall then travel 12 more then loop again.
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quote:
Originally posted by Bob S.:
Thank you for the reply. That raises another question though, does that mean the switch will allow the train to pass back through it without being thrown?


Yeppers that's exactly what it means,

I have spring loaded throw levers on mine that allow engines to "Drive" thru the switch , but some switches can be wired so the wheels will trigger the switch to throw.I don't have that type of switch so maybe some of these guys will chime in



David
Bob,

I'm not sure about the standard switches but for sure the remote switches work. I have three levels. the lower level I'm using 060 Fastrack switches with two return loops. On The other levels I have return loops using 036 Fastrack remote switches and they work fine. I never have to switch them manually unless I want to change directions.

Bill
The 036 remote fastrack switches worked great! Several hours running and not 1 problem, fact is it has worked out so well that Im thinking on a second level. The first level is now being set up for Christmas(my wife insisted since that was my original excuse to wonder back into trains)so I need a level to dig a little deeper into all the fun Smile I was going to jump into the DCS, Legacy command stuff but after reading about all the back and forth on it here on the forums I may wait awhile. Thanks for all the help.
Bob

Hi Bob.....I just got back into the hobby about 4 years ago, and was totally mindboggled at the advancements that had been made, what with the new control systems. After a lot of research, and since I was starting from scratch, I made the decision to stay strictly in the "Command Control" program.

 

Although more expensive, most will eventually find themselves going this route, and although conventional and command control can exist on the same layout, it is a lot more confusing, when it comes to the wiring. At least for me it was. I'm sure glad I didn't spend a lot of money on conventional stuff, only to kick myself later. I chose the Legacy System, and it works great.

 

Just my 2 cents worth.....oh I'm from Canada, and our Government just decided to do away with the penny, I guess I will have to call it my "nickels" worth now.

 

REV 

 

 

 

Also you can let your switch ( Ross or Gargraves ) "free float" without a motor or throw...

 

 

But then, unfortunately, the points may wobble around from vibration, and wind up in the middle of the switch, causing a derailment. It's best to have them held mechanically in a firm position, either by a spring arrangement of by the positive action of a stall motor.

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