Reviving an old lionel set and O-27 curves

Lionel four digit road # is 027. Three digit 0 guage. If that answers your questions.

If you provide more information such as an engine number and rolling stock you will get more detailed information. 

Attached is general information on engines that Are incompatible with O27 track.  

The Tandem Associates link that Rich posted is mostly correct.

I grew up with O27 track and we had an extensive layout with about 20 switches.  Multiple GG-1's (8753, 8850, Williams) had absolutely no problems with O27 track.  A friend brought over his MPC-era 8164 F3's and they also had no issues.  Switches, curves, etc., no problem.  Williams F3s had no problems either.  It's possible that the original horizontal F-3 "growlers" (postwar 2343, 2353) might have issues, never had those to try.

The 773 Hudson will actually run on O27 curves!  Not sure about switches.  But it looks ridiculous, the overhang is enormous.  Not recommended.  Neither are 2-8-4 Berkshires or 4-8-4 Northerns.  The 681 turbine (6-8-6) is fine.

While it's true that 4-digit locos like the baby Hudson 2065 were sold in O27 sets and 3-digit locos like 665 were sold in O-gauge sets, they are mechancially identical except for the rubber stamp, and both will run on O27.  In fact the vast majority of Lionel equipment made before 1980 will run on O27 but as you discovered the longer pieces look weird doing it.

My bigger concern is building an O27 layout on a 28" door.  These are toy trains and they run FAST!  They have a pretty high center of gravity too.  So I strongly recommend some kind of wall or fence around the edges of your door to keep trains on the table and off the concrete garage floor!

I tried my Williams die-cast scale Hudson on my O27 test track and it had no difficulty with the curves, or single switches - I don’t have any reverse curves. The tender wouldn’t cope with more than a 45 deg bend in O27 - I understand there is a shorter tender which is the principal difference with the semi-scale version of this loco, which negotiates O27. 

It does look pretty ridiculous though. 

My MPC era Lionel, and K Line semi scale Hudsons cope with O27 without difficulty, and look good doing it. So does my Polar Express 2-8-4, which is probably best described as “traditional size” 

My test track is built on a 78” x 36” hollow core door. The Hudsons definitely need a light hand on the throttle, the 2-8-4 less so - its small drivers mean it is actually quite slow. 

@Ted S posted:

 

My bigger concern is building an O27 layout on a 28" door.  These are toy trains and they run FAST!  They have a pretty high center of gravity too.  So I strongly recommend some kind of wall or fence around the edges of your door to keep trains on the table and off the concrete garage floor!

Duly noted. I did a test run with the loco on these small curves and at higher speed I detected a noticeable lean and perhaps desire to topple. Casey Jones eased up on the throttle a bit.  

???? does '027' come in larger curves ? Thanks.

A simple solution for the door width is to get a sheet of 1 or 2" rigid foamboard and lay it on top of the door. Cut it to the width you want. Adding a short straight section of track in the middle of the 027 curves will help ease the trains around the bends.

Post some photos of what you have. Sounds like a survivor for sure.

Yes, Marx, Lionel, and K-Line made O-27 profile track in wider curves (none of this is no longer in current production unfortunately)

Marx made O-34 curves and switches in O-27 profile

Lionel and K-Line made O-42, O-54, and O-72 curves with at least O-42 switches.

Gargraves and Ross currently produce O-27 profile track in many curve sizes and even flex track. This track forgoes the toyish large metal ties and has a more realistic look to it.

@RSJB18 posted:

A simple solution for the door width is to get a sheet of 1 or 2" rigid foamboard and lay it on top of the door. Cut it to the width you want. Adding a short straight section of track in the middle of the 027 curves will help ease the trains around the bends.

Post some photos of what you have. Sounds like a survivor for sure.

Depending on your track plan, it doesn’t add significantly to the width to add O42 transitions to the curves. You will need to cut a part-length of O27 because an O42 curve is 30deg, it goes O42-O27-O27 cut-O27-O42 but it greatly improves the running. O54-O27-O27-O27-O54 is easier and runs well.  However it DOES encroach on the length, particularly for the reversing loop, so I didn’t do it on my own door layout, but it’s an option and if I had 8’x4’ I’d definitely do it

Tringeekboy, hi there.
I have had luck banking the curve inward on 031 track. while this 031 is O gage tubular, and 027 is a different size Smaller rail and height, I would experiment with gentle banking outside rail. 
I have cut wooden clothes pins (the ones with the spring) each one has a very gradual slope or End that can be placed or fit under the metal cross tie. If Liked one can trim the wood to flush with the end of the tie. Care should be taken with fastening the track to your semi hollow door. Homosote ( a paper product board) can cover the door cut to fit. It is easy to gently screw down your track. This arrangement has been very secure.

As mentioned previously one can elongate the curve by placing a short straight section between the half circle. In that case it would be banked along with the same angle as the curves.

i have postwar 027 type Lionel trains that run on a series of doors with this sharp curve, right on the very edge! I have no derailment worries with  the  curve banking. 
placing a fence or piece of wood along the Curved banked edge is wearing the belt and the suspenders way. Your train will not hit the floor.
remember to lubricate your loco, and your freight cars for smoothest running.
best of luck.

You mentioned that the equipment came out of someone’s garage. I would suggest cleaning and lubrication.