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NESSMUCK,

You did not say if you are using DZ-1000 or DZ-2500 switch machines from Z-Stuff, the type of machines you get with Ross Ready switches.  Tony's link is to a DZ-2500 diagram that also uses a relay to power the closure rails, needed on long switches so the engines don't lose power going over the switch.  You probably don't need this.

Here are a couple of diagrams that show just the non-derailing wiring.  If the switch does not move in the correct direction, just switch the green and yellow wires at the track.

DZ-1000 non-derailingDZ-2500 non-derailing

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Images (2)
  • DZ-1000 non-derailing
  • DZ-2500 non-derailing

Ron's wiring is correct.  Just a caution.  On some switches, due to manufacturing tolerances, the two tracks he shows as insulated may contact at their bases where they come close at the frog.  Doesn't happen often, but it can.  Solution would be to slip a piece of paper or gasket material between them.  This is not a cause to go another route; I just did it as part of a substantial track relocation project.

Let me add another caveat, in case you're new to non-derailing switches:  ground only passes through one rail to each leg;  You can get some weird results if you don't jumper together the outside rails in the track on each leg of the switch.  Locos stopping wiothout reason, which one naturally attributes to center rail connection failures, is one.

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