SCARM Layout Assistance

Hi Demay,

If you could attach the actual file that would help on some mods\fixes.. here's my observations:

1. The mis-alignment at #1 needs to be adjusted by shortening the straight on the right side.
2. I don't start or place a switch in the middle of a grade change. if you do and it's worked, fine.
3. If this is a bridge to cross the curves will make a lot of work. Make it straight and a lift out or hinged section.
4. If this is a bridge, move the curve away from the gap a little to make it all straight. Similar to #3. It's also very long to make a lift-out or hinged section. Perhaps widen the table to shorten the bridge.
5. If #3 & #4 are duck-unders you won't be happy.
6. Can you cut super snap to make custom sized fitter tracks?
7. Is the 2" elevation really worth the additional work?

Thanks for the reply.

I attached another version of the layout, but I'm not sure if it's the actual file you want.  If not, please tell me how to do it.

1.  I shortened the other side and got one part of aligned, but there are still gaps.

2.  I haven't done this before either.  I saw/read about it in some articles and thought it would be okay, but I don't have to do it.

3, 4, and 5.  These will not be bridges, these areas will have bench work supporting them but I did not know how to draw it that way in SCARM.  They will be duck under areas but I don't mind as I'm only 39 and in good health.  Also, this layout will only be up and running for about two years before it has to come down.

6.  I believe it can be cut similar to Lionel but I'd prefer to not have to do that as I've never cut track before.

7.  I'd like to go a bit higher, but I don't want to have any significant grades to deal with.

Thanks again,

Joe

Hi Joe,

The SCARM file should be in your My Documents folder, named Ohio 5.scarm. That's what I need.

I guess what I was thinking about on the elevation issue was to eliminate any elevations.

I see one problem big problem with using the Lionel switches in SCARM for the plan. The small radius Super snap switch is a 36° turn according to what I can I find. Is that true? If yes, that will put everything out of wack.the Lionel switches are 45, 30 and 22.5.

Hello,

I believe I attached the correct file this time. 

I would like to have an elevation change but not having it is not a showstopper.

I guess I misread the switch information incorrectly.  I thought the Lionel O switches came in O31 and O42.  I have an O31 Super Snap switch and everything I found online as well as RMT's new offerings of it list the smallest size as O31.

Thanks,

Joe

Joe,

Ok, I'll take you word for it as I don't know Super Snap that well. I went by the K-line specs. The RMT version states that it's the same as an 022 switch (031).

Is the top and left side against a wall?

Neither the left side (9' side) nor the right side (6' side) will be against a wall.  I will have enough room to walk down the sides.  As of now, the top side (14' or so) will be against the wall, but it doesn't have to be.  I should be able to move it about 10" from that wall as well.

Joe

It seems they only offered 031 and 072 switches in Super Snap. No 042. Does that mess up your plans?

Please pardon my ignorance on this track. I see Lionel introduced the 042 switch that looks like super snap.

Back to SCARM...

No worries on the track confusion.  You are correct, RMT has O31 and O72 versions, K-Line by Lionel has more sizes including O31 and O42.  I would love to have O72 but I'm not sure I could make it work due to my size.  I know it would work on the outside loop but I'm not sure about the switches to the inside loop.

Thanks for the help,

Joe

Joe,

My tractor was misbehaving, but I finally got to your layout. Everything fits now.

1. You need 12 custom cut straight tracks, which can all be cut from 3 40" pieces.
2. There is one section at the top right side that is mis-aligned by 1/8" or less
3. Changed some track to provide for good spacing. Minor changes. The building near the isolated tracks in the center was the only one that had to be moved about an inch or so.
4. It appeared to me, after working with the layout, that the long run at the bottom was the best place to elevate and show off the train.
5. Two files are attached-the Moonman changes doesn't have the fitters colored. When you color tracks, it makes them different for working with the layout. Use this one if you want to change anything. The second has the fitters colored for easy location and identification.
6. I built the layout starting with the passing siding and switch set-up and worked counter-clockwise. When assembling the actual track, the switch combos set your spacing and location, so it seemed easier to work it that way.
7. You may to cut a 10" on the straight at the right where there's a diamond connection showing the slight mis-alignment. It's a 5.5" and 2-2" so a 9.5" would be nice.
8. I used the 14' x 9' on the top and left to make things fit with good spacing.

Don't worry about cutting the fitters. A fine tooth hacksaw and a miter box will work or a Dremel with the 1 1/2" cutting wheel attachment is the cleanest. You may lose a tie, but I don't think anyone will notice.

You'll have to do this to make the layout work and minimize the track joints.

I attached some 3D views and the two SCARM files. I hope you like it. It looks like a fun layout! My email is in my profile if you want to discuss anything in detail.

No worries on the delay.  I appreciate the help.  I agree that the bottom stretch is the best place for the elevation.  I'm looking forward to building this layout once I get settled in to the new location.  I'll post photos of the progress when that time comes.

Thanks again,

Joe