I have several steamers that periodically need new rubber tires, and the nuts for the drive rods can be a bit challenging to remove.
Recently, I have noticed, in some reviews of new locomotives, that some units come with a tool to remove those nuts.
So, 2 Questions:
1- Can this too be purchased somewhere?
2- Can anyone tell me the size of wrench is required for those small nuts?
As always,
Thanks for any comments and help with this issue.
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I think most modern Lionel locomotives use 5 mm. Most modern steamers come with a tool like this that you can purchase from Lionel:
You can also use any 5 mm nut driver tool that you can obtain from any tool supplier. Purchasing an SAE and Metric set of nut drivers will allow one to service all locomotives prewar, postwar up through today's.
bmoran4 is absolutely correct. The only thing I’ll add is some store bought sockets and or nut drivers have the hex inset too deep to effectively grab the super thin faces of some rod bolts,…this is my main socket for working, it’s a Kobalt brand 5mm socket that I’ve touched to my belt sander to bring the hex closer to the surface ,…..easy peasy, grabs effectively,…
Pat 
@bmoran4 posted:I think most modern Lionel locomotives use 5 mm. Most modern steamers come with a tool like this that you can purchase from Lionel:
You can also use any 5 mm nut driver tool that you can obtain from any tool supplier. Purchasing an SAE and Metric set of nut drivers will allow one to service all locomotives prewar, postwar up through today's.
Thanks Guys I appreciate the info.
One more question: Are the drive rod nuts this size on all brands of O gauge steamers?
I have a set of the Wiha drivers, and I've had to do what Pat did and grind down the mouth so that it can grip the skinny rod screws. Many of the rod screws are indeed 5mm, but I've come across other sizes as well.
I also have a lineup of those manufacturer's tools in my toolbox. 
Might I also add to this discussion if you use a tool other than the small diameter one that comes with the locomotive. You need to be careful not to over tighten the nut when reassembling because you can develop a lot more torque with a nut driver or socket wrench.
You haven't seen the Whia drivers, I'm very mindful of not using excessive force when assembling small screws and bolts. They have very small diameter handles so that excessive force is hard to apply.
Gunrunner those are nut drivers do look really nice, think I'll have to get a set. I was just thinking if any novices reading this post decided to give it a try for the first time, might save some stripped threads.
I guess I can finally elevate myself to slightly above novice. 
I will say, your comment about too much force is right on target! I've become quite skilled at repairing the plastic posts in diesel engine shells that have been split by the he-men that somehow think they need 100 ft/lb of torque to secure a plastic shell with a tiny plastic post!
I have the metric and SAE sets, they come in both flavors. I also added a couple of drivers to each set for "holes" in their standard set assortment.
Gunrunner thank you for posting the model numbers I'll look into that right now.
Somewhere in my travels, I ran across a 3.2mm nut on a brass engine, so I picked up a 3.2mm Whia driver and added it to my metric set.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:
Thanks for the info John.
Your input is always a big help.
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