Lionel rolling stock, afflicted with the riveted plastic trucks, have a lot of jiggle when run. Particularly noticeable when running TOFCs, or flatcars with vans. Diecast trucks are easy - unscrew the truck, and place a flat washer between the truck bolster and flatcar; that takes up most of the slop. Not so easy with riveted plastic trucks. The rivets can be drilled out, and trucks replaced with diecast, but that’s difficult and expensive. I have what I think is an easier solution, but the devil is in the details. I would like to use an e-clip to act as a space occupying washer, reducing the side to side slop, but getting the right size for the diameter of the rivet shaft, and, more difficultly, getting the e-clip placed, are the 2 stumbling blocks. The space between the bolster and car side is a significant hindrance. So any and all ideas are appreciated. Thanks for reading.
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How about using a plastic bread clip; the kind that you find in the grocery store loafs of bread?
Great idea - that’s what this forum is so wonderful for. Ideas, and imaginative, helpful, members. I’ve actually used bread clips to take up the slop on MTH diesel axles, but never crossed my mind to use them in this fashion. Will give it a shot! Thanks.
Bread clips work. Still hard to get them jammed in, though. Tried 3 cars, and got 5/6 bread clips in place. Last one has put up strong resistance. Not enough space between car and bolster.
If there is not enough space between car and bolster, you can twist fine hobby copper wire around the shaft. Works great for taking out the wobble.
Ron
Another great idea! Thx, Ron.
Most of my rolling stock the wheel sets were loose, to the track. Move the wheels out, on the axle, so the flange is closer to the rail.
@Mark V. Spadaro posted:Bread clips work. Still hard to get them jammed in, though. Tried 3 cars, and got 5/6 bread clips in place. Last one has put up strong resistance. Not enough space between car and bolster.
If you look at different bread products (and other similar closures), you'll find that the plastic closures come in all thicknesses. You can also just find the plastic and use a paper punch to make the hole and then cut out the shim in the proper shape.
Thank you, GRJ, and MikeCT. Both great ideas. Sheet plastic cutouts will work, too! Mike, is that tool specific to o gauge wheel sets?
PS - kinda surprised no one has suggested using an underwire bra!!! 😜😜😜😜😜
Mark, the tool Mike shows appears to be a plumbing tool for pulling faucet handles. A wheel puller works well for that function, I personally use the Timko wheel puller.
(Automotive)Battery terminal puller.
Thanks for the explanations of what that tool was. I’d never seen one like it before.
Ron - would 24 gauge copper wire be appropriate for this?
Mark - it really depends on how much room there is between the bottom of the car and the top of the truck. It wouldn’t hurt to give 24 gauge wire a try. The hobby wire I use is 26 gauge. Also, adjusting the spacing of the wheels is not really a cure for the wobble. The wobble is usually caused by the “top heavy “ car swaying because it is loose on the truck mount rivet or screw.
Ron
Harbor Freight has a really cheap e-clip assortment:
https://www.harborfreight.com/...ssortment-67653.html
John