Stray dc from a z 1000?

I have a used Z-1000 and the buttons were sticking. Maybe the buttons are losing there spring tension or just need cleaning.

pops3301 posted:

I have a used Z-1000 and the buttons were sticking. Maybe the buttons are losing there spring tension or just need cleaning.

I have never had a reason to open one of the controllers in the past.  How did you correct the issue?

The chopped waveform of the Z-Controller can cause a small DC offset on some layouts, it all depends on a host of factors and what the actual inventory of what is on the tracks.  Many cars that have electrical components, lighted cars, operating cars, sound cars, etc. may impart a small DC bias.  Add that to the DC bias that might be caused by the Z-Controller and you can get random horn honking or bell ringing.  I've also seen this happen just with dirty track.

I've also seen this happen just with dirty track.

Well, I suppose starting with  simple and obvious can't hurt anything!

jhz563 posted:

I have a z1000 brick that I use for both conventional and dcs operations.  In conventional I run it through a z750 control as I don't have larger one. Every so often in conventional I have a loco whistle or horn go off without me hitting the button.  I don't know if it's a problem with the z1000 brick or the controller. This has happened with different locomotives so it is not an engine problem.

Has any one else experienced this ?  Is it a sign of worse things to come?  Any reliable way to tell where the source of the problem is?

 

All help appreciated as  usual,

jhz

I have a couple of the Z-750 controllers that have failed completely. As soon as I power an engine on the track with a Bell option, it is sounds and the background sounds are garbled. 

I have had no problems with the newer "Z-Controller" from MTH. The bricks (any size) have also worked very well for me.

Hi, if it helps. Take a voltmeter, put it on DC volts and connect it to the track (outside rail=negative, center rail= positive. Without pressing any buttons you shouldn't read any dc voltage with the controller turned up. On mine when I press the Bell I get about -2.6volts dc and when I press the Horn/whistle I get about +2.6 volts. Maybe you should post what trackage you are using and taking some voltage measurements.

I also took gunrunnerjohn's advice about the dirty track. Found out I DO have some track issues on the realtrax layout.  I have a few small layouts. Fastrak and Realtrak.  The lionel fastrak layout has the outer rails jumpered on all the tracks(from the factory). The realtrax doesn't, I didn't pickup on this. I'm reading AC voltage on the outer rail to outer rail until I jumper them (on the MTH realtrax). So any connection to the other not grounded rail was being made by the wheels (not to mention some loose track that was on the good grounded rail). I looked at all the realtrax and it's all the same (outer rails not jumpered).

I've also had problems with the fastrak pins, after about 4 weeks of use, maybe because it's not screwed down and it's on a hard surface.

Guess I'm going to have to do the same thing I did  50 years ago and solder jumpers to the track, except this time I'll use rosin core instead of plumber flux and plumbing solder! (Hey, when your young how else do you learn, it was what was on my dad's workbench).

I want to thank the engineers and knowledgeable people on this forum for the valuable information you post and help others with. All of you  have saved me countless hours of work (and money) getting back into trains. My TVS's are still in the mail.

Thank you.