Yes. I don't have a top board. But it would work thru a top board as well, but in that instance screws would be easier. I use a Brad pusher into the foam.
@CR Cole posted:Yes. I don't have a top board. But it would work thru a top board as well, but in that instance screws would be easier. I use a Brad pusher into the foam.
Thanks,
That's great to know.
John
@CR Cole posted:Frank, I just use 1 3/4 paneling nail, the ones with the head, not finish nails, at a slight angle. Holds tight, even when I had to pull up track to get my switches fixed everything locked back tight. All my assemblies are nailed down to foam that way.
Excellent! Thanks!
Frank
Will you need to drill through the folding table top to run any wiring ? I hope not, I won't know until I come up with a track plan.
I'm assuming you can cut 2" foam with a hole saw to make holes and drill bits to bring wire up from underneath. Yes? No? Anyone? Ferris?
Frank
@ftauss posted:I'm assuming you can cut 2" foam with a hole saw to make holes and drill bits to bring wire up from underneath. Yes? No? Anyone? Ferris?
Frank
The usual methods for holes would work. I would prefer not to drill through the base table if I don't have to. The track plan and accessory power requirements will dictate power drops through the foam and possibly base table.
@coach joe posted:The usual methods for holes would work. I would prefer not to drill through the base table if I don't have to. The track plan and accessory power requirements will dictate power drops through the foam and possibly base table.
Joe,
Did you ever finish this? How did it work out?
Thanks,
John
About 10 years ago, I built out my father's garage, to add studs, two-inch foam insulation and paneling to the cinder block walls. Holy cow, what a job that was.
All of the foam sheets came in four- foot widths, and I had to slice the sheets into 16 inch strips.
I ended up using a carpet cutting knife, which if you have never seen one has about a two inch long razor blade exposed and jutting out from the handle, and those blades are sharp on both sides. Extremely dangerous.
It cut through the foam with two passes, but I was really concerned about cutting a finger off. (I'll never try that again.)
Oh well, at least I got paid $5,000 plus materials for the work.
(Mannyrock's Rule #1: Never agree to do anything free for anybody, including your family! If you do, you are telling them that your time is worth nothing!)
I have to say that I admire the OP's willingness to try something new. But, had he just used 2x3 cross members on his table frame, every 12 inches, glued a sheet of 1/2 plywood on top, and maybe a sheet of homosite on top of that (if he was concerned about noise), then his table would have been far stronger and the materials would have been much cheaper. (I can walk on my table top with no problems. The 2x3s are really cheap and light, and very strong when plywood is glued down on top of them with PL8 construction adhesive.
Mannyrock
I think Joe was looking for weight reduction with this project.
John
CraftTech, I'm still clearing space in the train room. Getting close but at an impasse. Still some boxes in the way with nowhere to put them. gonna have to stack them up on one side of the room get the table set up and then store stuff underneath once track work is done.
@coach joe posted:CraftTech, I'm still clearing space in the train room. Getting close but at an impasse. Still some boxes in the way with nowhere to put them. gonna have to stack them up on one side of the room get the table set up and then store stuff underneath once track work is done.
Sounds like my house Joe.
Keep us posted. I am sure it will turn out great when you have time to get to it.
Regards,
John
