Suggestions for adding weight to a tender

I've gathered up some scrap flat plat from work, a little double sided taped and good to go. about 1/8" thick does fine.

I use lead stick on car wheel weights to get rolling stock to the proper NMRA weight. Search ebay for 'stick on lead wheel weights' or something similar. There ae probably other sources like Amazon as well.

You can use anything metal that has enough weight to it, and secure it with double stick tape.  An old door hinge, fishing sinkers, and the like, but definitely double stick tape in case you want to remove it later.  I'm fortunate that I have 2" longs 1" wide brass wire holders with two magnets, that went right in a few slope back tenders.  You could do something similar with gluing a magnet (epoxy) to something with weight and the magnet will hold it to frame, easy removal later.  Let your mind wander at possibilities.

Here are some - with free shipping, too.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wheel-...9b148292&vxp=mtr

I buy lead ingots and lead wire on the Bay. The ingots come in 1 lb and 1/2 blocks and the "wire" comes in various thickness. The ingots work great for PW diesels and the wire works well when you have restricted space and you must cut lengths of it and glue it in. 

Roger

I took a "shot" at it and added weight with material on hand.

imo I believe it is crazy to use lead. lead has been outlawed in some states for wheel weight use as it is harmful to the environment.

harbor freight has steel stick on weights and that is all I use.

Anybody remember the Cotton Brute, the N scale diesel weighted with depleted uranium? I think one record attempt was over 800 cars. 

Not sure what the availability or legality is on that stuff these days.......

That's a beautiful photo! No pea shooter there.

I use lead curtain weights, held in place by double-sided tape.

depleted uranium-I thought that was called lead? At least U-238 ends up as 206Pb

try using some fishing sinkers

I use magnets if the tender has a metal frame and you can stack more on each other very easy. And like Grampstrains mentions you can remove them easy as well.

Another thing that I did was to use small rocks, with glue, as they have weight and are easy to obtain.

Lee Fritz

Is that why all the cars I have weighted so far have a slight glow to them now?

Fishing weights here too,  I used to install them in Weaver cars as they were way too light for a long trainset.    I use the triangular shaped ones which had a large flat surface area.

I have posted this here more than once:

Buy a lead roof vent at Lowe's or the hardware store of your choice.

Cut it with tin snips as needed. Attach with 2-sided tape, epoxy, rubber cement, Walther's Goo, hardware store Goop, an so on.

It will be enough lead for years, most likely. Wash your hands after handling it.

That's it.

Roof vent; tin snips; glue; common sense. Cheap.

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As for "being bad for the environment", I don't plan to toss my weighted RS in with the

unicorns, puppies and rainbows.

(Psst - I also still have a piece of asbestos cloth that is used on those rare occasions when I use a soldering torch at the bench rather than an iron; I don't lick it or hold it over my nose.) 

I struggle with all "hype" about lead, and I will agree that it is bad near children or pregnant females.  I have heard differing opinions about it causing brain damage, etc., but after working as a telephone cable trouble shooter, I have handled untold amounts of lead, lead dust, etc. Over 41 years in the field.  I don't have any ill effects, from all that exposure.  Just handle it cautiously when you do use it.  Maybe I am brain damaged and don't realize it!!

As above...Stick-on type wheel weights. Available at almost any automotive store (O'Reillys, etc). Can be easily broken at one-fourth ounce increments and are scored for that purpose. Flat, adhesive already part of it, easy to hide and camouflage (use). Pretty sure they're not lead metal, but maybe bismuth or some other dense metal -- as is waterfowl birdshot.