Finally around to laying track , Grargraves flex, and want to move trains to adjacent line and a compact manner, as close as possible. My set up is small and space is limited. Which Ross switch do you recommend and what minimum distance, length should I plan for?
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When switching between tracks, I would recommend the Ross #4 switches. They may be a little longer than others, but they will provide smooth, derail free operation (unless you run large, scale-size equipment). For all sizes of equipment, I would recommend Ross #6 switches. Take a look at the Ross Custom Switches web site; they have a page that provides templates with all measurements for their switches.
Others might suggest the Oxx switches (like O72), but I don't like them because they create S-curves when used for crossovers and they also generally create more distance between parallel tracks.
Chuck
While the Ross higher numbered switches would create a really smooth transition. More like you would see on a high speed mainline. I’d go with the number 4’s that Chuck recommended. Especially if space is critical. They will still be a smooth transition. Ross offers these as one. Number 202 and 203. You decide if you want a right or left. I think the track spacing is 3.5”. You can contact Steve to verify.
I agree. Any of the Ross numbered switches are the way to go here. I have 4, 6, and 8 and can confirm they will get tracks close together. So close in fact, that I have to remove ties from the sectional track connecting to the switch.
What sort of equipment are you running? 0-6-0T? Big Boy? and will there be curves at the end of the straight away?
Perhaps a word of explanation should be offered here with regard to "numbered" switches, since they are not commonly used in 3-rail.
Here's a diagram of Atlas switches that illustrates the principle of numbered switches.
The larger the number, the easier the turn and the longer the switch. On the real railroads, high speed switches are number 20s. That is a LONG switch!
A gargraves regular O100 switch is comparable to a number 5 turnout. 072 switch is around a number 4 but has a curve through it. Both can get you a 4.5 inch track separation.
I used a Ross #6 and achieved that kind of spacing on my parallel mainlines. Reason I did this was I read an article (might have been on here or online) where they compared using an 072 versus a 6, and the 6 was a lot more compact and is smoother per the author. a number 4 will be a more abrubt transition. Just as a note, my layout isn't large, it is roughly 9x14.
Everyone,thank you for your replies,very helpful. All of my trains are Lionel, post war, no relatively new big cars or locomotives. Most of my curves are 48" curves,24 dia and I have just started bending my Gragraves 3 rail, phantom regular track. I believe I have some additional tips on bending this track relative to the Gargraves video, I will share once I test the track and curves. I have been working my way through the Ross switch sections in the catalogue and not certain which switches I should mate with the phantom track ? Any thoughts. Also assuming I can use the #175 double crossover superline series,would this work for crossing over trains on my elevated two track layout? What is the difference between superline and Ross plate tubular rail? Based on Chucks comments, the #4 switch appears to be the right path,however the #175 looks possible as a compact solution? The top tier layout plan/dream is to run trestles up -down and use this crossover to get the trains back down to the main table. Thanks Bill
The Super Line rail will match your Gargraves. The Ross Plate is meant to go with the Lionel tubular.
I have the double crossover. It may require a little more extra wiring to get your engines through. I had a bit of postwar years manny ago and I don’t believe I had any issues. Now we are use to multiple pickup rollers and axle wipers to help navigating the more scale like switches to prevent stalling.
Without seeing your track plan. You want to keep these switches on somewhat level ground. You mentioned an elevated section. While the double crossover works well. The #4 crossover switch by using a pair will accomplish the same thing. Maybe without having to deal with any fancy wiring. But by spreading them out from one another. You can create a passing siding.
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