The Super O layout weight loss plan - Give me some ideas!

If you want Lightweight I would use  Lauan board probably 1/4” thickness. I’d frame it using 1x2” wood boards. As long as you do not step on it it ,it would handle the weight of O gauge trains. Another idea is to use the same framing but just top it with 2” insulation board. If you look up on how folks make a N scale T track layouts  you will see similar ideas.  These are not robust and strong but strong enough for your requirements without the hassle of the heavy weight and bulk of larger 1”x4” or larger frame boards and heavier plywood thickness tops. You could make 2’x4’ foot sized modules with above materials all lightweight and easy to carry. Try building one and see if it fits your requirements.

Why make modules at all?  Just lay the track on the floor when you want to set it up.  Very light weight.

ogaugenut posted:

Why make modules at all?  Just lay the track on the floor when you want to set it up.  Very light weight.

Trust me, we just went through a whole Super O layout on his bedroom floor. Track gets kicked, bus bars come loose, pain to set up and clean up. I want fast set up, fast tear down, and something that we can take on the road. 

Carbon Fiber for sure.

Boilermaker1 posted:

Carbon Fiber for sure.

That actually sounds like fun....

Derek.......email GIlly@N&W.....he one of my modular group buddies and he has redesigned our modules to be very lightweight. I'm sure he'll have lots of good ideas for you.

All our modules are now built this way and they weigh a fraction of the previous ones.....

Check the most recent pics on our Modular Group News thread....06/02/19 Update....

https://ogrforum.com/...r-group-news?page=17

Peter

How about using hollow core doors? Light, trouble free, and cheap! Habitat for Humanity usually has an abundant supply of used doors that sell cheaply.  -Salty Rails-

I know you said you were going to the floor, I have always liked the idea of a lift.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xXZaUoMb-60

I set up Super O on the floor some too. Bus bars coming loose is no fun haha. 

I have made modules with 1x4 frame with 1x4 horizontal on the ends 1x2 along the sides with 2" foam unsupported  in 4'x 30" size about 15 years ago for our club layout. These used to be moved twice a year to our train shows they are now on permanent display at our station. I have also built 2 4'x8' mods for my home layout using the same construction with an added 1x4 cross support in the center. I can move them easily and I'm 80 years young. 

The hollow door idea will work.  I used to have a Super O Christmas layout on doors topped with one inch stryofoam glued to the doors. 

If you go with a framed layout try redwood framing if you can find it.  It's pretty light & strong.

 I'd check out Gilly's. He thinks, and sometimes outside of the box. Uses good judgement too, imo. I throw a lot of likes his way.

You can get contruction foam 3-4 inches thick. You aren't breaking it easy or getting much lighter. Im thinking  metal rod "rebar" embedded from all sides might stop that. (grind the tip into a drill bit shape, drive the last inches, and plug the hole with adheasive. I don't think you'd need bit flutes.

Another member did one big sheet for a table top or wall leaning when unused, another used two sheets for a Christmas floor layout.

The green I used dented sightly under my weight, but some  4" plywood squares & my knees and hands had "snowshoes" to rest on (185-210lbs).   Later, bigger ones (about 6-8"") stradled two rail lines when I threw them down. Kept those under the transformer.

  I kinda like fiberglass idea if you are doing raised terrain/mountain/etc. Check with a few boat shops. There is a cheaper alternative to true carbon fiber(costly). It's stronger than regular fiberglass, and more cost effective than true carbon fiber. It looks like carbon fiber too.  All use the same fiberglass resins. Boat shops usually carry the best fiberglass supplies (get ready for some possible sticker shock trains aren't expensive, boats are. I paid $35 a quart for my choice wood varnish over a decade ago. Fiberglass was cheaper though )   The stuff sets fast, there is heat. Too much to hold a containers worth setting up with bare hands for most folk. (ok while in the working stage, hottest after work time, as it really hardens.)  Fun to lay, a bit tough to sand. I'd rather be low and skim coat up than sand down far.

Another l thought for terrain is expanding foam ("great stuff foam", but you can opt for a two part mix that is basically the same stuff, but you pour it where you want it. (Boat/automotive/paint supply house)  These foams are great to carve on. (a local guy does fake hollow tree "stumps" 4-6ft tall for garden decoration all in foam. Looks real in person, appears heavy, feels like balsa   )

Derek, here is a shot of my layout, currently set up at our local mall which is built on two hollow core doors.  lt must be 30 years old now and has been taken all over Arizona for different events, although now permanently at our mall display.

Check out the 60" x 30" bi-fold plastic table - can screw into it, glue a grass mat on it - it would take two for a Super-O layout of 5' x 5' - plan the track from the fold in half seams - no joiner needed - just a close butt of the rails - scenic items kept in plastic tub containers - legs can be left under for floor running - this one is about 36lbs