I am wanting to add a couple of switches (Ross) to my existing mainline (Gargraves) for a siding. I was thinking of cutting the rails to the length of the switch and using GG strip connectors to fit the switch in. Is there a better way? I don't want to take up any of the mainline track if at all possible. I could not find a thread on this using the 'Search' function. Appreciate any advice!
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What you are describing is the preferred method. I did that exact same thing 4 years ago when I added 10 Ross switches to our clubs Gargraves layout.
I used a 4 1/2" right angle grinder with a thin cutoff wheel to make a perfect cut in the mainline. Used track pins on one end of switch, then used Gargraves track pins on the other rails soldering them to the inside edge of the rails (non viewing side). Grind off the little knob on the pins and they fit perfect on the side of rail below the running surface. I used small needle nose vice grips to hold them in place and line up rails perfectly.
When I did what you are planning, I used the GG connectors, but cut them down in length--I found the "out of the package" length much too long to easily fit into the rail slots. In hindsight, I like Clem's approach better.
Whatever device you are going to use to cut the rails (I used a Dremel tool with fiberglass cut-off wheel), do a sample cut on some scrap, and measure the kerf; then include that dimension when measuring for your cuts to create a nice, tight fit for your switch.
Also, a right-angle tool for a Dremel makes for better appearance if you aren't ballasting your track. With ballast, as I had, the angled cut edges can be "dressed" to conceal the below cross-tie height rail.
I think the method you describe if fine but subject to the condition of your sub-roadbed. if there are any dips, bumps or seams from homosote/plywood, it can sometimes be difficult to get the switch down all the way so that the tops of the rails are even.
Another method I have used often would be to cut the main and remove enough track to make room for the switch plus another 2 or 3 feet. Then you can install the switch using the pins, relay the track and where it joins, use either the connectors or pins. I find that if needed, making adjustments using shims to get the sections even is easier away from the switch.
The strip connectors will not go into the Ross switch. I cut out a section of Gargraves then install the switch as usual then use the strip connector to place the removed section back on the layout.
romiller49 posted:The strip connectors will not go into the Ross switch. I cut out a section of Gargraves then install the switch as usual then use the strip connector to place the removed section back on the layout.
Rod
Didn't know that! Or maybe I did and just forgot! 
I know there was at least one reason I avoided using the connectors on a switch.
John
This forum never disappoints. Much wise advice, generously given. Thanks everyone!
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