TMCC engine takes off at full speed

Order the  magnet from Lionel. Part # 6108080126.  You can buy motor, flywheel and sonsor for very cheap money.  Part # 6108080101.

Tom, well done on your post.  Many people give no information other than it is a train.  Item number and a photo.  You are going on my list of people to watch.  Easy job, good luck.

Thanks!

I see the magnet ring is sold separately and also the entire motor assembly is available from Lionel.

My question is: can I easily remove the flywheel and replace the magnet or am I better off just buying the assembly? The flywheel appears pressed on, so without a puller and proper tools am I likely to simply ruin the motor armature and flywheel? Is this an easy job, or is replacing the entire assembly the easier way to go?

I'm thinking the extra $30 is well spent if it saves me the future aggravation from having a flywheel that wasn't replaced tightly.

Thanks again, the level of knowledge and helpfulness on this board is incredible!

-Tom

Tom in my opinion I would just purchase the entire assembly, much easier

Alex

Alex is right.  Unless you are good with a quality puller, buy the complete unit.  FYI, the magnet ring is a slip fit on the flywheel secured with super glue.

 You have three choices, you can replace the magnet and flywheel with the odyssey Fix-it kit P.N. 6208523102, replace the complete motor or my preference is the replace the DCDS with ERR Cruise "M". This will do away with magnet, motor sensor and driver board. The Cruise "M" will also help with the slow speed jerkiness. You will never look back.

Bill

I have a Lionel TMCC steam engine that started to run away for no reason.  The problem was a failed R2LC board.  The engine ran perfectly when the board was replaced with a new one.

NH Joe

Joe, while that's certainly possible, that's a very low probability failure.  By far the most common is the magnet self-destructing or the DCDS crapping out.

Which is what the owner stated.  He already knows he has a "shattered" magnet. G

Yep, we even have a picture of the flywheel and it's missing magnet!

Parts ordered. While the ERR solution is interesting, I'm going with the easiest repair - the entire assembly. I will post updates when (I hope) it is fixed. Thanks for everyone's help to steer me in the right direction. 

Tom,  I agree with what Bill had suggested.  In 2012 I had the can motor in a K Line Berk go bad, as well as the board shorted.  I replaced the can and put in the ERR "Cruise M" with no problem.  The Berk still runs great, especially at low speed and creep, pulling a fair sized consist.  I have since put the same ERR in a couple of MTH PS1 conversions and I am very glad I did so.  In future, giving ERR a consideration is worth while... IMO.  It will be good to see your engine back running down the track.

I installed the new motor assembly with new odyssey board and magnet/flywheel. It was fairly easy and straightforward. One quick clip to the board and two wires that needed to be de-soldered from the old motor board and soldered to the new one. And . . . it works!!!

It even runs smoother than ever, the low speed jerkiness is gone.

Of course, there is a glitch. The chuff sound only works in forward. I don't know if this is related or if it never worked, but I noticed it when testing along a short piece of track. Can I ask for a little more help with this one?

Thanks again.

-Tom

The chuff has nothing to do with the Odyssey speed control.  That locomotive will have a mechanical chuff switch.  It's right behind the smoke unit down on the chassis.  Sometimes the pivots for the mechanical smoke unit work loose and the don't press the chuff switch enough.  If that's not the issue, typically, you can slightly bend the actuator arm on the chuff switch to get it working again.  My next move is to shoot contact cleaner in the crevice at the switch nub that the arm presses.  if none of this works, it could be really bad, you may have to replace it.

Interesting it works in forward, but not reverse.  G

I just checked the chuff switch and with a slight bending of the metal tab it now chuffs in forward and reverse. I think the angle of the rod was slightly different in reverse and just missed activating the switch.

Now it runs perfectly!

Thanks so much.

-Tom

Yep, I've seen them work in one direction, and just tweaking the lever normally fixes it.  Nice easy fix and it was cheap.

yup. Just the right price!