Total Newbie Questions - help!

PJB: I've always wondered the same thing about how to handle the "joints" on homasote.  In fact, I'm still not sure on how to handle the "joints" if you use blue/pink sheet insulation.  Maybe that's why I'm still on the fence about which one to use.  Although the recent post here about the fire on a member's layout that was covered with pink sheet insulation did give a reason to pause and think that maybe blue/pink sheet insulation is more combustable that homasote.

I can answer #3 first. To attach an RCS switch to Atlas O, all you need to do is 1) cut off the plastic track clip from the Atlas piece, so that the tracks can be mated. 2) push the end tie of the RCS switch towards the next tie so that the standard Atlas O joiner will slip onto the RCS rail. It should be a tight fit.

 

#2: the Atlas rail joiners with the 18 ga wires can be used-- all you need to do is connect them to the heavier gauge(14 or 16) wire that you should be using to get from your transformer to the track. The few (6-8") of 18 ga. wire is OK- no voltage drop. yes, using them for the switches is also OK. you have the right idea-- connect the three drops together, then to the 14/16 ga. wire.

 

#1: I've always used masking tape,as it gets covered by the paint. Sheetrock tape should work, too. Don't forget to paint the Homasote!

Fec fan -thanks a lot! This is very helpful. Almost forgot about painting homasote. Just went to home depot and got a gallon of brown paint for homasote and benchwork legs. Figure I'll paint all sides of homasote and maybe underside and sides of plywood to try and seal out moisture/humidity. Live and learn. I did a "starter" layout for my sons for Christmas 2011 using only homasote and by the end of summer, with new England humidity, it looked slightly like a roller coaster with peaks at joists. Peter

PJB, I use latex caulking to cover the seams and screw heads. Just put a thin layer on with a putty knife to fill the seams, and wipe it with a very damp sponge, the same with the screw holes, you will probably need to do this a couple times due to shrinkage as it dries. A damp sponge works best since you really can't sand the latex caulk after it dries. Then paint over it to seal everything.

 

 

The first pic is without the caulk, second after caulking and the third is after painting. It doesn't make them completely invisible but after landscaping they are almost impossible to find. 

 

 

 

This is the layout I built for my grandson 4 years ago and even in an unfinished basement the seams haven't opened up due the flexibility of the latex.

 

Jerry

So I take it you are suggesting that landscaping alone won't cover the seams and may even cause problems with adding some landscaping?

Not all the time but I've had a number of times a seam has opened up and it's usually in a bad spot like down the center of a road. There's probably a number of ways to minimize it but I stick with what works for me. Never had any real luck with plaster or tape to cover seams.

 

Jerry

Thanks.

Baltimore train works - that's great advice. Would not have thought of this! Funny how trying to go "by the book" in terms of using only model RR books and online resources for building our layout has unfortunately made my brain leave common sense in snooze mode at times. Thanks again.

I've used masking tape to cover a myriad of sins in my Homasote, and never been able to see it after landscaping.  But I suppose it depends on your landscaping material.

Professor, I've seen masking tape work really well but as you noted the landscaping materials and techniques go a long way to finish the look. I tend to just glue grass and dirt directly to the platform so I'm working with a pretty thin layer of landscaping that doesn't hide mistakes very well.

 

Jerry