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A few questions here regarding building about a 3 foot by 2 foot pond on my layout:

 

First, I want to use a surface for my lake bed that is completely "Realistic Water" tight--no seepage or drips through the surface. Woodland Scenic suggests a primer product called Flex Paste as a primer. I assume this Flex Paste keeps the Water from oozing through--is that correct? Also. what is Realistic Water made of--is it a resin? Will it damage anything on the layout?

 

Second. what could I use for a base?--mat board, foam core, masonite, wood, foam? Any must-not use products for the base? Is there any product I could just set down and paint without using Flex Paste and still get a tight surface so the Realistic Water will not seep? I now know Realistic Water will seep right through mat board with acrylic paint over it.

 

Finally, any other suggestions for using Realistc Water to minimize problems? I have looked at the Woodland Scenic video and it seems simple, but....

 

Thanks.

 

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Thank-you.

 

The problem with these other threads (and  I have already looked at them) is they really do not address the best ways to make the base water (resin?)-proof and what kinds of materials I can use for the base. One guy mentions plaster--surely there is an easier way...

 

Does anyone have any thoughts about these issues regarding base material and seepage?

Looks great.

 

My pond is very irregularly shaped and has hard objects bordering it, so I do not think the shower glass option will work. But, it would be great in another application.

 

I guess I am going to build my water "pool" lined with plaster and/or flex paste and drive on. Don't have much choice, as my location is fixed.

 

If it turns out well, I'll  post pictures.

 

If anyone else has a thought about a better way to "line" a pond for use with a resin filler, let me know.

 

Thanks.

You don't have to have the glass cut to an irregular shape for your pond. Cut a rectangle and create your irregular shaped bank on top of the glass.

 

As far as hard objects boarding it, they also sit on top of the glass. The reflections will make it appear that it is actually sitting in the water. For a complete "how to" on using shower door glass, check out my book:

 

Realistic Modeling For Toy Trains: A Hi-Rail Guide

 

Dennis Brennan

Originally Posted by DennisB:

You don't have to have the glass cut to an irregular shape for your pond. Cut a rectangle and create your irregular shaped bank on top of the glass.

 

As far as hard objects boarding it, they also sit on top of the glass. The reflections will make it appear that it is actually sitting in the water. For a complete "how to" on using shower door glass, check out my book:

 

Realistic Modeling For Toy Trains: A Hi-Rail Guide

 

Dennis Brennan

But I did have to get glass cut. My layout had track and scenery on both sides that couldn't be moved, so I couldn't just stick in a rectangle and scenic over it.

 

I'll post photos soon---turned out great.

I can't wait to see it!

 

I just want to try and get people to understand that with glass it's far easier to lay in the glass and then do the scenery right on top of it. Of course, for my harbor I had to cut out the foam to create the rough shape so I knew exactly how big a piece of glass was needed. However, the foam was not glued down until I placed the glass. With the glass in place, I then added the foam and extended my scenery right on to the glass.

 

Dennis

I like that it looks very nice.
I did my first lake in N scale using Magic Water. I thought I had all the cracks sealed WRONG I was lucky I did have a bucket handy and although I had to throw it out I did manage to keep it off the floor.

I want to do a small body of water for a light house . Thanks Eliot for the idea
I'll be ditching the Magic Water this time and using the glass.

David

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