What Do You Guys Use For Water?

Here you go Don

 

https://ogrforum.com/d...363#2415514336498363

 

 

Bob

I was not happy with the Woodland Scenic's water. It never sets hard when dust is allowed to set on the surface it will imbed in the surface of the water. I an getting ready to do some water myself. I think I am going to try Magic Water. If anyone has had experience with it let me know how it went. Ken the guy from AR

I used wet plaster, painted it with acrylics and then poured in stinky polyeurathane.

 

 

Don:

 

I was initially put off by the cost of Envirotex until I found it on the Walthers website for around $64/half gallon kit.  If you look at how much you get in this kit and compare it to the cost of some of the pre-mixed alternatives available in hobby stores, Envirotex is an incredible bargain.

 

I just made the first pour of the river on a new section of my layout yesterday and, other than the smell, the Envirotex was easy to work with.

 

Curt

Unnamed poster Really good looking water. I need to build a test section and try it out. I have been told that Evirotex would not work for my layout because of the temperature changes in my layout room would cause it to crack and pull away from the base. Ken the guy from AR

Christopher sorry about calling you the no name poster.  I was on my iPhone and for some reson you screen name wasn't showing up.

Wow .... that is very nice water! And stone and vegetation! Very realistic scene.

 

Jim

Guys

Thanks for all of the feedback. This gives me what I need to go forward. I will post pics as I get the area done.....

Don

Looking forward to it. Ken

Thanks Ken and Jim.

No problem, Ken, I've been called much worse.

 

I'm definitely looking forward to seeing the scene progress.

Don

 

I will second Chris on the "plaster first" technique.  On an area that large, pour the whole thing with a very thin plaster coat.  You want to use paint to get the "depth" of the water effect you are looking for, not the thickness of the model water material. 

 

 This will also help seal the area because all of these water gels will find every pin hole and pour through sending this expensive stuff to the floor of your layout room.

 

I did a couple of small streams on my layout and learned the hard way the above.  I planned it out where I would pour it at a high point and let it run down and look natural!  Nope.  I ended up with several really deep ponds and no streams.....  This sucked up more bottles of this expensive stuff filling in all the gaps and depth than I want to mention on this forum. 

 

Next time I will use more plaster and paint and use just enough of that stuff to make it look wet.

 

I think texture will be the main thing for you to focus on in some small practice areas before you start this area.  In my small stream I wanted a more flat look.  These resins will dry perfectly flat.  In a big river bay like what you are modeling,  you will probably want a mild wavy pattern.  Scenic Express has a water effect product that is basically a clear caulk that is added on top of the resin water.  It will hold a ripple.  I did not do too good with it myself.

 

Steve DeLoach

Hi Steve

Thanks for the advice. I am trying to go for a tidal marsh look like this here:

 

 

We live near a tidal marsh here in Scarborough Maine and the water is jet black because of the mud underneath. The mud is a silty stinky black and I think this will look nice in contrast to the green marsh reeds, concrete bridge piers, and silver weathered bridge I have built. The only thing I am a little stuck on is the texture of the water. My good friend and mentor, Ben Brown, has been urging me to create water with texture but I love this "still" look. Though as I look it it now there are some slight ripples in the water.

I am still on the fence here and think I will just get it poured first and deal with it after. The other issue is the bridge is very close to  the viewing edge and most of the broad expanse of water is in the background. So I am not sure it is worth the time to spend texturing such a large area that is really obscured by the bridge and trains.

I am going to focus on the bridge this weekend and forget about the water

My brain hurts.....

 

Don

Don,

 

The link Bob provided (2nd post) shows various methods, including the Envirotex I used for a small lake, approximately 14x24 inches. And it works fine, but even for this small size I would recommend DennisB's method of using a shower glass; more specifically, Aquatex shower glass. That is what I wil be using for my larger lake, approximately 3 x 4 feet.

 

Bob's link also has a picture of DennisB's method, and there have been several other threads with Dennis' lakes.

 

Good luck!

 

Alex

 

 

 

Don,

I am with you, go for the flat water, looks like perfect skiing water!!!  It will be easy to pour and being black it will be easy to color. 

 

I have read everything I can find on the internet on pouring water and water modeling products over the last week or so.  I am going to go with Magic Water for my river if my layout didn't have a 40 degree temp swing I might use Evirotex.

 

Ken

There is a water scene on my layout in the future. Keep talking, all of you....I am listening.

Malcolm

I use Envirotex, and have for years.  I have no complaints about that product.  Little or no odor, easy to mix and pour (make sure your riverbed or lake bottom is 100% leak proof), can be "worked" in the curing stage to create ripples, and dries rock hard.

 

Guys thanks again for all of the thoughts and posts. I am going to try and see what will work best. Going to see of I can get the glass cut into this odd shape I have brewing. In not Envirotex or Magic Water will be the winner.

D

I use clear silicone caulk, from a caulking gun.  Easy to make ripples and CHEAP!

I'm at a similar stage.  Having read a similar thread on the scenery forum I'm giving serious consideration to the glass pane or shower door method.  It might give you the flat water effect you're looking for.

One of the forum members mentioned a book I'm looking to pick up before I commit.