Vision Line Triplex Tender Smoke

I have the Triplex as well, same issue,  the stack (tube) is getting clogged.  Try blowing air down the tube.  That got mine going again.

scott Kelly

I started keeping a can of air duster around for this. I'm not sure what the mechanics of the problem are but it just seems like certain smoke units are more prone to this than others. I think @rscott is right. The smoke fluid blocks the actual smoke. A quick puff of air should fix it. I wonder if fluffing the batting in the smoke unit would help.

Thanks guys will try what you suggested 👍🏼

I would suggest replacing the smoke wick and filling with 20 drops or less and wait a few minutes while the smoke wick get saturated, then only add smoke fluid when the smoke slows down but do not over fill smoke unit, it should then work perfectly, your batting could be black and crusty which would mean your wick has been cooked!

Alan

Classic fluid bubble it sounds like.  Typically, a puff of air down the stack does the trick.  I caution using canned air as that may be too much of a good thing.  I use one of these, I think they were made for ears.

I did have the MTH triplex and I now have the Lionel version.

Both have the same problem which does require a slight puff of air in the rear stack.

I suspect it's the length and route the smoke takes from the smoke unit.  I haven't looked to see how it gets to the stack on the tender, however the stack exits at the bottom of the tender.  That being the case, that's a perfect route for a smoke bubble to form.

I had a problem with no smoke from whistle - send back to Lionel in concord - got back today with report that they just added 9 drops to main stack and he whistle smoked ok. but when I put it on track the front stack and tender worked fine but nothing from the whistle!   i have not overfilled the smoke unit, have tries all levels od smoke (low.med,high) and no change   i do have to blow some air down tender every no and then but that smoke unit is fine.. sending  back is a pain  any ideas?

ps the sounds ,bell, whistle,crew talk forward,reverse all work fine - using cab2 /990

@ted K check out this thread here.

Another point is from Sean's pictures, the tube for the whistle smoke runs right over the ban intake, it could be restricting airflow enough to affect the smoke as well.

thanks i wonder why Lionel says it works fine  after i sent back to them and then they sent it back to me saying that it works fine!  will keep running and if it does't improve its going back For 2200 would next better

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@gunrunnerjohn do you suppose we could 3D print a new part that has the tube coming off at an angle? Instead of straight over the intake? Not that I need another project or anything

@BillYo414 posted:

@gunrunnerjohn do you suppose we could 3D print a new part that has the tube coming off at an angle? Instead of straight over the intake? Not that I need another project or anything

I can't say, I haven't looked inside to see if there is room to change the shape or routing of the tube.

Gotcha. Do you have a clearer picture that shows the part number of that smoke unit? Looks like Lionel 691-DSMK-000 rev 2 to me.

I don't have a picture, but I'm sure they used the standard double smoke unit.  There are several varieties of them, at least two, one with thermistors and one without.

I'll inject a little story here about smoke units! I had an overhead G Scale layout in my office and a display  in front office that I would change every 4 or 5 weeks!  I had a MTH Erie Triplex set up on rollers to run!  I put Mega Steam "coal" scent in and fired it up! The kids loved It!! It was super realistic as next door tenant called checking to see if something was burning!! Mega steam has many scents available!

@TedK were you able to resolve the smoke issue?
I have a same/similar issue with my brand new Polar Express 1225 Berkshire. Brand new. It refuses to produce whistle smoke.

I've done more investigation than perhaps I should have warranty-wise.
I removed the smoke unit and disassembled it. Batting is fine and saturated. Heating elements both heat up (checked with thermal camera). Whistle fan (vs main stack fan) runs when whistle sounds. Tubing between smoke unit and whistle output hole is clear/open. IMHO, the plate "baffle" that separates the stack smoke batting from the whistle smoke batting is a poor idea. It requires smoke fluid to "wick" from the stack batting, down under the baffle, then into and upward through the whistle batting.

The point made above about the air input hole being blocked seems feasible. I'll have to check that out.

Smoke unit part number is same as above, Lionel 691-DSMK-000 Rev: 2
Parts: SMOKE UNIT BREAKDOWN / DSMK / DUAL - 680-2695-200

Chris Hibler

@Chris Hibler posted:

IMHO, the plate "baffle" that separates the stack smoke batting from the whistle smoke batting is a poor idea. It requires smoke fluid to "wick" from the stack batting, down under the baffle, then into and upward through the whistle batting.

This actually makes some sense. I noticed that the whistle smoke gets weak when refilling smoke fluid during an operating session, but it's strong the next day if I fill at the end of operations for the day.

I've given the "baffle" some additional thought.
From a "smoke fluid transfer" standpoint, it's not a great idea. As mentioned above (sorry...I don't know how to quote on this forum), it takes time for the smoke fluid to make it's way to the whistle steam side of the smoke box.
On the other hand, without that baffle, both air cavities would be open to eachother, and the purpose of dual fans defeated. Either fan would drive smoke both up the chimney and out the whistle steam hole.

A separate hole to add smoke fluid for whistle steam, as was perhaps done for some prior engines for at least "blow down" smoke, would have been a better idea, but that hole would have to be the whistle steam hole as having a second hole would cause the same issue that the baffle addresses. The instructions specifically mention to NOT add smoke fluid via the whistle steam hole. It would have a long way to travel to get to the batting and some would undoubtedly be left in the tube to congeal and eventually clog the vinyl tube.

Older models didn't have the dual-smoke design, they used a separate smoke unit right at the location for the aux smoke.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Older models didn't have the dual-smoke design, they used a separate smoke unit right at the location for the aux smoke.

And that is a better solution, IMHO. A single smoke unit might ease assembly and/or fit into limited cavity volume, but a separate smoke unit as you described is better.

Thanks for chiming in.
From what I can see, you are "da man" around here.

Well, I might be one, but there are plenty of very capable folks here.   It's a good place to get answers.

There has been a lot of comments about the dual chamber smoke units and its drawbacks.  I have rebuilt multiple dual chamber units.  Everyone's comments are spot on.  It is hard for the smoke fluid to make its way from the main smoke chamber to the aux chamber (the aux chamber is used as whistle steam in some engines and steam chest steam effect in others).  Regardless, they can all experience the same problem.

IMHO the transfer of fluid from one side to the other is problematic.  Hear is an example: There are two wicks acting like a sponge, one dry and one wet, setting next to each other, held apart by a metal baffle with a slot in the bottom.  I would say the dry wick/sponge will remain dry, unless the wet wick/sponge is overly saturated providing free liquid to collect in the bottom of the chamber and migrate to the dry wick. The dry wick will then absorb the free liquid until it is gone.

However, if the wicks are connect or touching, then the moisture from one will travel to the other until equilibrium (moisture) concentration is obtained between the wicks. I realize there there is surface area of the chamber and of the baffle that could act as a transport path, but the flow of moisture/mineral oil will be at a much lower rate comparatively.

One solution I have done with success is adding a small amount of wick material under the baffle bottom (within the baffle slot) connecting the two chambers.  Not enough to plug/stop the flow, but enough to allow transport of mineral oil through the wicking material.  This allows/aids the two chambers to come to the same / equal level of concentration/saturation.

In the meantime, yes, you will need to add enough fluid to the main chamber until free liquid will make its way to the other side...

John, What is the tube called bought.If I goi to CVS, just want to know what to look for.