WellI'm at it again layout time!!!

Oh my, what a way to have to take down a layout!

You know that I have always suggested to you and have been a fan of the large radius double main(O84/O72) around the perimeter.

A lift area to get into the loft.

30" wide on the long sides would permit long sidings to park the long trains on.

Pylons on the wall would create a lot of open space and easy access underneath.

Don't know, John, that last one was really nice.

yea 084 and 072 would be nice . Kinda like the yard I made it was only 21 inch's wide and made for a nice part of the layout easy to work on and reach everything.  they are starting to rebuild the house tomorrow. new floors and drywall the rooms that are affected are not even the train room/loft it was the hallway floors the bathroom and the bonus room so basically the whole second story minus the train room but since new floors thru out I might continue on and redo the floors in the train room too. I probably could have left most of the layout alone. but they paid me to take it down close to $7000.00 because it had to be moved.  I got a quote based off the pics and to rebuild it Professionally not by me of course was a lot more than $7000.00 so they felt it was cheaper to pay me to take it down LOL they even replaced the materials to rebuild the layout. only thing I couldn't figure out is they depreciated the building materials like say a 4x8 sheet 20 bucks right they depreciated it to like 15 bucks ? oh well. 

Carl I have been thinking of doing modular railroad sections around the room. My wife has been on me about selling the house to down size a little and modular would give me the ability to move it to a new home.  right now this house is 3 story's finished basement then main floor then upstairs the upper 2 floors are 2500sqft so with the basement I'm about 4000sqft with a garage in the basement and a 2 car upstairs Our family was 7 of us 5 kids and me and my wife. but now it's 2 kids and a granddaughter and me and my wife so  7 bedrooms 3 baths are not needed any longer. looks like a small little house until you get to the back of the house. there is now a deck across the whole back side of the house and another deck where the 2 trees are that's where the pool is now  the deck around the pool is 50X 26 

I'll email you my SCARM file for the LCCA modules for FasTrack, unless you want to just make your own. That would be cheaper and you could work with what you have. Then a take down for whatever reason would be bolts and wire connectors or terminal block screws.

LOL, I laid this track on top of a file of yours from three years ago. I was thinking about around the walls then.

Sounds good I just don't like that the modules cost 200 bucks per if buying the kit . here's what I have come up with so far building wise. bad thing its not all of them .

Jhainer posted:

Sounds good I just don't like that the modules cost 200 bucks per if buying the kit .

 

FWIW, our club looked long and hard at the LCCA modules. The $200 only provides some of the materials. My best estimate, you're looking at more like $500/modules once you're complete.

Gilly any suggestions on the modules? or should I just use 1x4 sides and 3/4 ply top at x width and x length.   

John,

I build the LCCA module, I don't buy them.  You have to purchase the track and module lock alignment template.

Just build your own to your dimensions. get some ideas from the clubs ' specifications.

National Capital Trackers

North Penn O gaugers

The Fort Pitt HiRailers

Gilly's club has a standard, although I haven't seen it published.

1 x3 frames with rabbeted edges for  1/2" deck , leg pockets are the tricky part, 2 x 2 legs, and the wiring connecter harness. usually and an * or 12 position terminal block and some type of male/female connector on the ends. Fort Pitt uses plugs and receptacles in boxes. I think the Anderson power poles that national Capital Trackers use are nice. I had to buy the crimp tool. I used those on the museum layout pieces. Lionel uses molded trailer plug harnesses.

So take what you need to create your own sectional deck pieces that will fit in the space the sizes that you need.

Many use clamps to hold them together. 1/4" carriage bolts and nuts could be used.