Wiring noob, please help

Chances are that all the red wires will be connected to the center rails of each section, and the black wires connected to the outer rails. Connect all the red wires together on the terminal strips, and all the black wires together also. The main red and black wires to the terminal strips get connected to the transformer, red to variable, black to neutral (or ground). You can also disconnect the wires from the terminal strips and use wire nuts to connect all the red wires together, and then all the black wires together.

Keep all same color wires connected together, and you should be good to go.

Larry

I agree, transformer variable to large red post, red track wires to the red side of the MTH strip. Common-Black, to the other side. The other wiring terminal strip may need to be connected to the first strip too if it gets variable power. Or the white strip might go to fixed transformer power if for lights or switches etc. Better check. Wires not conforming to the color scheme should be followed and/or quickly tested before being addedsnbfb.. done last too. Electronic(Radio Shack too), HVAC, Automotive, and other types of supply stores often carry stickers for easy labeling of wiring. Money well spent.   

Edit: "snbfb" was my dog typing while I was gone 

The good news is that the wires are connected to the item to be powered or controlled. That will tell you what the eventual source will need to be.

There should be multiple to connections to one loop of track of both hot and common.

The euro style barrier strip may be different than the MTH terminal buss block.

The MTH terminal buss block provides multiple locations to connect hot and common from one pair from the transformer.

The barrier strip provide an easy point to make connections to extend wires. If terminals are jumpered, than those terminal will provide multiple connections for one hot and common like the MTH device. Observation or a meter will tell you how that was used.

if you need more assistance a good hi-res shot of the bottom will help.

Is it two separate loops? Any switches? Any powered or lighted accessories?

Matching the wire colors would be the easiest approach, like Larry said. Then go from there.

Thanks everyone for the responses and offers to help.  The good news is that it is already wired I just have to figure out what goes where and then I can learn from that when I am rebuilding the basement layout and wiring. 

I will try to shoot a quick video and post it tonight.

This is a fastrack three times around the tree configuration. 

Some of the wires are white braided, others are red and black.

No switches, one crossover. 

The z-1000 has one red and one black connector, not sure if it has enough power for the whole thing...what do you think?

No buildings or lights will be connected.  There is one bridge with a red light that could be connected. 

I plan on using the ceramic buildings and plugging those into power strips and outlets. 

it should be simple. The white braided is color coded. the MTH terminal buss has the green connected to common or U, so the red braided and red would be A or hot (red).

It is most likely an arrangement of feeders to supply power around the track.

You'll find the green and black connected to the outside rails and the red to the center rail. It's like having multiple terminal tracks around the layout.

We'll check out the video later.

Do you have a multimeter?  Test each power drop to identify where it is connected.  Hopefully all the red wires go to the center rail and the black wires go to the outside rail.  Once you have this figured out, extend the wires to the MTH Terminal connecting the red wires to the red side and the black to the black side.  Connect your variable oput from the transforeme to the red and black posts.  Have fun.

Here's a quick video to show the layout and the wires that are disconnected.

Let me know if you can tell me what goes where. 

Your layout looks like FasTrack.  If it is, FasTrack is very easy to wire.  There are tabs underneath one connecter to the center rail and the other connected to the outside rails.  Check the current wire with a multimeter.  Touch one end to the center rail and test the wires for continuity.  Hook all of the wires together.  Next test the outside rail and the remaining wires.  Connect these to the black terminal.  The Red terminal hooks up to the center rail and the Black terminal hooks up to the outside rails.  You can pick up the .110 crimp on connectors from a True Value or radio Shack, or you can order them from a electrical supply house.  The transformer should hook up to the MTH board.  Red to Red and Black to Black.  All of the track wires should connect to the screw terminals on the board.

Looks like you might want to start from scratch ...

All those wires might have been for buildings, switches etc. Some could have been to power different blocks on the layout as well. If you just want to run a train, you don't need all those wires. Only one set may not be enough so connect a few sets, at different area around the layout to the MTH board you have then connect the transformer to that. Remember red to center rail. Once you have it working and the train goes around without cutting out, then you can get fancy as you gain confidence. 

Here is a photo of the tabs under the fastrack where the wire hook up.  The pen is pointing to the center rail tab where the red wire is connected.  The next picture shows a pack of the terminal connectors.  the next photo shows a terminal being crimped onto the wire.  You can make these wires long enough to reach the MTH Terminal Block, or just make a long enough wire to reach through the layout and extend it with a crimp on barrel connector.  Connect the Red center wire to the terminal screws  and the black wires to the black side.  Connect your transformer to the big lugs.  You can strip the wire back or put banana plugs on the ends and plug them in.  I used 14 gauge stranded wire.  I put a drop every forth track on my layout.  I added more then was needed.

Best to test as you go. You just have to hope the creator was consistent.  Of great help would be a volt/ohm meter(about $10 for a cheapie, good enough for lots of train jobs), or at least test light, or even lighted/operating stock (Cars! Id avoid using a modern loco, but maybe a conventional one). You don't have turnouts, but if you did, or it had buildings or lights, wires might be there. Educated guesses are a must. Start by choosing the one set of power wires thicker than all the others, and connect the variable side of the Z to the MTH board with it. If no "biggest" wires exist, look for a doubled up pair(4), or use a pair at least equal to the largest of the remaining wires. Tape off and/or separate all other loose ends, and look close, making sure all track is normal track(no special operating sections with extra rails or wires).  Take ONE wire set , black/red from any known track feed and connect to the MTH board. Place your test equipment on the rails nearest to the feed and attempt to power up (a lighted car "shines" for tests like this). Hopefully its successful and the Z breaker doesn't trip. If it trips this may be difficult(and/or wires are still crossed). Assuming its OK at this point, move the testing equip. slowly around the track looking for power loss. Loss of power in one spot only may just be "block wiring", knowing/finding if blocks exist at this point helps some. If you have track power now, even if its one piece of track, power down. Now add ONE more set of wires to the mth board. Power up again, check breaker, and/or track again, also quickly check for uncoupling on the newly wired in track, just incase you missed a special track(hidden electro magnet track, if you managed to wire the control leads to track power, leaving an electromagnet engaged too long could make it overheat.) Check to see if any dead tracks came to life too. The other terminal strip can have the same logic process applied to it. Why so many feeds if one will work? More feeds helps make power delivery more consistent, less slow downs from being far from the original feed. If any wires newly connected cause a breaker to trip, disconnect till the reason can be explored.

If you find wires going to nowhere today, separate and tape um till you're ready to explore.Get the basic track going first.   

Adriatic has it. Do you have a lighted car or a meter to check voltage?

I would concur with the wiring scheme that red\black are track feeds, so ignore the white with color codes.

Connect the Z1000 to the MTH board red to red and black to black at the bottom of the on the twist terminals.

Next, connect one pair of red\black to a screw terminal on the board. Turn on the transformer. Now test. Roll the lighted car around the track or test various locations with the meter. All good? Turn off the transformer. Connect another pair of red\black. Turn on the transformer and test again. Continue this with as many of the red\black that are near the MTH terminal buss.

Now you should be able to run with plenty of track feeds if all went well. Electrical Tape and hide the other wires. If they are connected to the track they will have power.

Thanks everyone.....great suggestions. 

I don't have a voltmeter but probably need to make a trip to ACE hardware and get one.   I have a lighted car or a searchlight car that I can use.

I will do some experimenting tonight.

Thanks to the generosity of a fellow forum member, the wiring issues are resolved and the train now safely navigates the entire layout.  Will move forward with scenery and buildings and post some pictures in the near future.

I am constantly amazed at not only the wisdom and knowledge on this forum but more so the passion and giving nature of the members.  Forum member Hokie71 came from out of town directly to my house, brought tools, supplies, expertise, and patience while my son and I tried to learn how to resolve some of these issues.  Thank you Paul, and to all forum members for all that you have shared with me over the years. 

This truly is a special place!