Need help with streets/roads

I like using concrete backer board (wondreboard).  It has a bit of texture, paints well without sanding. Have also used roofing paper. 

Like to mix it up on different areas of layout for less uniform look.

backerboard:

roofing paper:

Then there is the issue of tertiary(dirt) roads.  We are assuming you are interested in primary roads.

Bill D

looks great but what is fusion fiber??

Thanks for all of the replies.  They all look great.  The look closest to what I'm going for is Bill's backerboard.  Bill, is it just painted, or did you add something for a smoother surface?  What color paint did you use?

Phil

the backerboard was either drybrushed with black so some of the grey showed through or painted with a dark grey that was homemade mix of black and white.

It paints very easily so if its a bit off just try again.

to give the aged yellow lines I first used yellow chalk then painted over it.

Bill D. 

I have been using 1/8" masonite board. I found a spray paint at a local hardware store that is called "Granite", and when it dries has a rough texture. When dry, I sand it down a little smoother, which doesn't affect the colour at all, but makes it easier to apply tape stripes for parking spaces and divider lines.

REV

Thank you all for your replies.  I'm a little hesitant to try the wonderboard because my recollection of using it to refirb a bathroom years ago was that it was difficult and messy to cut, and very heavy.  But that is the look that I like the best. 

Phil

Phil:

Take a look at the attached article. It is an inexpensive way to get some good looking asphalt roads.

Joe

Joe and Bruce, thanks for the replies.  Joe, your approach looks like it's worth a try.  The cost and amount of work seem to be the better way to go, given the amount of scenery I have to build.

Phil

I use Masonite or sheet plastic cut to width, paint it gravel grey and sprinkle on sand. When it dries, I give it a second coat.

The vinyl brick streets shown on the scenery source list are wonderful. We have used them too. Also cobblestone plastic sheets. 

Dirt

Cobblestone

Plaster

For Clem, Bruce E, Revitupfaster and other forumites, how wide do you generally make your city streets and roads? I'm thinking of prototyping the Strasburg, PA area (both town and country farm areas) during the late 40's to mid 60's. What are the recommended width/length of parking spaces for both parallel parking along curbs and for diagonal street parking and parking lots?

Sorry it took so long to get back to you, but to answer your question, I've decided to make my main town streets with parking on one side only. I didn't like the look of a town without any street parking, but parking on both sides takes a lot of real estate out of a relatively small layout area, so I opted for for parking on one side only.

I make my town street driving lanes at 2 3/4" and the parking lane at 2 1/2". Don't know how prototypical this is, but looks OK to me.

For the parking spaces, I usually aim at between 6"&7" length. I have one area of angled parking and again I went with 2 3/4". Again, I think you need to divide up the available space and adjust accordingly to fill it so it looks good to you.

Here's a pic of some of my roads before finished adding all the lane markings.

REV 

I use fresh clean tar paper cut to size. Without any modification, it has the texture and color of freshly paved asphalt, and it doesn't have the problem of the cars' reflections showing in the surface like some of the painting techniques (those would be some seriously clean roads! ). Far less work too.

Here's mine. All it needs now is the thin colored electrical tape for lines:

Black foam board painted gray, so they don't look so new

This is what I do for roads in the foreground:

1) glue down 1/8" thick black foam sheets, cut to the width of the roadway (you can get these frpm AC Moore and other craft stores

2) Cover with Durhams water putty dyed wih black acrylic craft paint

3) Weather center with Bragdon weathering powders (mostly grimy gray)

4)  Add center line using automotive double pinstripe tape

5) Seal with dull coat

6) Gentley rap a few spots with a ball peen hammer to crack the surface:

John, the photo of the black Ford is very real looking.  It took several close looks to determine if it was real or a model.  I would assume that Bill Dimenna's True Scene modeling material would provide about the same effects as the Durham's, but I have both on hand and will try them both.  Thanks for the reply.

   Phil

Actually everyone gets this backwards. Roads/streets are generally defined by making sidewalks first.

I use 1/4" Lauan (door skins) wood from Lowes to make just about everything including sidewalks.

I use light weight Fast-N -Final Spackle in many applications also. Pot hole patches ect...

Cover finished sidewalks, paint streets black, mist with aluminum spray paint to make your basic old school street.

Apply a mix of grey wash over the entire street.

Highlight the patched pot holes with black. Run clear gloss nail polish around the edge of the patches to show liquid tar sealer.

Paint sewer drains and covers with burnt umber.

Concrete color for side walks, ROW structures and buildings is LINEN 420 Folk Art paint found at W.M. and crafts stores.

Steve, your work always amazes, and I would guess the key is in the extent to which you go to get the details just right.  Thanks for the reply and the glimpse into your methods.

Phil

Actually everyone gets this backwards. Roads/streets are generally defined by making sidewalks first.

 

There are, of course many ways to make roads, that's part of the fun of the hobby

For modeling, since the road is the "lower" layer, I find it easier to first "lay" the road, but make it wide enough to accomodate the side walk. Then weather the road and add lines.  Steve gives some good suggestions for that.  After all that is done, I cast the sidewalks on top.  Use plastic shoe molding butted up to the outside edge of the road to define the outer edge of the sidewalk, use flexible stick on foam insulation to define the inner edge.  Both should be at the same height above the road.  Note the white plastic angle used as a spacer between the two

 Fill that gap with a layer of spackle (I use the DEX stuff that goes on pink, dries white) and trowel flat. 

After the sidewalk is dry, touch up with sandpaper and carve in the expansion joints. Then color with acyrlic of your choice.  I use Plaid Linen, as Steve suggests, but for varation I have used Clay Bisque, Light Gray, and Barn Wood both by themselves, and in mixtures and or washes of all three.

Also, brush off the stree of all scenery material before you take the photo

 I would assume that Bill Dimenna's True Scene modeling material would provide about the same effects as the Durham's,

Phil

I am not sure the true scene will work, as it may be too flexible.  I wanted to create realistic looking cracks.  And the only way to do that is to start with something very hard. Even Plaster is too soft.. it simply crumbles into pieces when you rap it. Norm Charbonneau has made very effective roads made by hitting 1/8" masonite with a hammer. Again it worked because it was hard. I went with Durhams as I could easily make the natural undulations and crowns you see in real roads.  

John, I see your point - the TrueScene would likely just dent, while the Durham's would crack. 

Phil