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I need some forum help.  I am using LIONEL 0-22 switches on my new post-war style layout.   BUT, my 2  almost NEW 0-22 RIGHT HAND switches # 6-14063  are derailing my engine as it comes in on the curved portion and exits on the left.  So far all my older 0-22's work fine.

The left hand pilot wheel is being lifted up and over the rail and causing a short when the engine exits the switch. Here is my layout and pictures showing the engine entering the switch and exiting it.

Can anyone familiar with this switch help me?  PLEASE.

000_0185

100_2118

100_2119

100_2120

100_2121

100_2122

Attachments

Images (6)
  • 000_0185: portion of new layout 4' x 10'
  • 100_2118: 2-8-0 entering switch from cured portion
  • 100_2119: Just about thru
  • 100_2120: just about thru
  • 100_2121: left pilot wheel lifting up
  • 100_2122: Left pilot wheel up and over the outside of the rail. Ready to short out
Original Post

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Larry,

   This is the problem with 022 switches they will only accommodate certain engines.

For this reason I took all mine off line and used 711/072 Lionel switches.  If you want to have a quality constant running traditional tubular layout, run the 711/072 conventional Lionel switches or the K-Line low voltage 072 SS Switches, they accommodate every different kind of engine and rolling stock, including original Lionel Tin Plate & MTH Reproductions.  Larry when I 1st saw your nice layout, my very 1st thought was nice layout, but very limiting as to engine and rolling stock usage.  Using the Lionel 711/072 switches or the (RMT)/K-Line 072 Super Snap switches would have opened a lot of running options for ya.  These bigger Lionel & K-Line switches accommodate the 2-8-0 engines with absolutely no problem.

PCRR/Dave

 

Christmas Train layout 001

2007 Train Layout 016

Attachments

Images (2)
  • Christmas Train layout 001
  • 2007 Train Layout 016
Last edited by Pine Creek Railroad

Larry:

 

Just for giggles, perhaps try putting a postwar O22 switch at the location of the problematic new-manufacture O22 switch.  In other words, just swap an old for a new.

 

Does it work?  Can the 2-8-0 go through the postwar switch without issue?

 

If yes, can you move the new-manufacture switch to somewhere else on the layout where it doesn't impact things as much (e.g., a freightyard)?

 

Please let us know.

 

Steven J. Serenska

I was actually substituting the newer switch for and old 0-22.  I only have 1 siding where a newer one will go.    Anyway, if I cant get them to work, I sell them here or the auction place.

 

to Pine creek  - there is no where on my layout where I can place an 0-72 switch.

If I ever get a bigger layout I will try and use 0-72.   The other problem with them is the price.  A  RMT or K line 0-72 will cost me over  $ 190.00 with 24% exchange on the Canadian Dollar and up to $ 40.00 each for shipping.

Are the pilot wheels moving in and out? Looking at pics, seems I can see the axel on the pilot wheel showing through but then starts to disapear as it goes through the switch and can't see it at all at the point were it derails.

I had a similiar problem with a pilot wheel that was loose on the axel and wasn't seated and moving in and out causing derails especially at switches.

Just a thought and what I had happened and fixed.

Last edited by josef

Larry,

   With your present design you are absolutely correct, however the picture I posted for you to see, is on the 4' wide section of that particular layout, your layout will definitely not be the same, however you can use the 711/072 switches on your platform with a different track design.   To me repetitive running is much more important than using the 022 switches, to attain a certain track design.  Your layout design is great but very limiting as to train usage, you are just getting started with your tubular conventional layout, I would opt for the repetitive train running.  As for the cost no doubt about it the Lionel 711/072 switches are much more expensive, but will last many life times. I have a box full of Lionel 022 originals stored in the attic, that have not been used in years, due to the problems you are now experiencing.  Keeping the cost down today while building a layout is darn hard, you either sacrifice running certain engines & rolling stock or save your money and purchase the bigger better switches, using a track design that will accommodate them.  Larry your layout is really nice looking, and I wish you the best of luck running your 022 switches.  You will figure out shortly which engines and rolling stock you will be able to repeatedly run.  I found down thru the years the mid size Diesel engines run real well thru the 022 switches, even back to back to back.

PCRR/Dave

Last edited by Pine Creek Railroad
Originally Posted by Larry3railtrains:

I was actually substituting the newer switch for and old 0-22.  I only have 1 siding where a newer one will go.

Larry:

 

I don't think I was clear.  My point was to try temporarily substituting a different switch into the problem area, ideally with a switch that's different than the one causing the problem.

 

If a temporary swap solves the problem, you know the culprit was the switch and you're almost done (see below).

 

If swapping switches doesn't resolve the issue, then:

  1. It could be the table and I think Trainroomgary's suggestion to use shims to see if it helps make sense. -- OR --
  2. It could be something wrong with the pilot. -- OR --
  3. It could be something else.

But a temporary swap of a switch that's working fine with that same loco will will help you narrow it down.  

 

If swapping out the switch works, you can decide to put the bad switch in a quieter area of your layout (e.g., the freightyard) or just sell it off.

 

SJS

 

Another suggestion, and I believe this came from Rob on a different thread with a similar problem, add some tape (perhaps several layers) to the guard rail used by the non-derailing wheel.  The idea is to "hold" that wheel slightly away from the derailing side and thus prevent the derailing wheel from doing so; i.e., cause the wheel that's been de-railing to track more towards the center of the route.

 

If that's solves the problem, you can leave the tape in place or replace it with some styrene glued in place and painted black.

Well, further testing shows.  -Both my # 6-14063 RH switches and the # 6-14062 LH switch will derail my MTH 2-8-0's  (2 of them).  I tried powering up on a test table -same result.

 

The 2-8-0's will back thru these no problem, but not forward from the curved section.  No "S" Curves here.  But on my 12 older 0-22's no problems. Even the "S" curves between the 2 loops, NO problems with the older Switches.   So I will buy 2 older RH 0-22 and 1 older LH 0-22 and see what happens.  I tried also raising one side of the switch - no difference.

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