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Purchased an old 1033 at a show.  Have already added a new breaker and  a whistle diode. After doing some research, I still can't find specifics on 2 items.

1)  The function of the 1033-103 resistor assembly. What to use as a replacement? I'm not sure I understand the functionality of the resistor assembly.

2) I see pictures of the spring by itself on parts URLs.  In one youtube video there was a view (not a real close-up) of an installed spring  where "it appeared" that the spring leads when passed thru the fiber plate slots are crossed, thus causing the direction handle to center when released.  The leads on the spring I have appear to be shorter (looks like they were snipped) and DO NOT CROSS. I think this is the cause for the handle being loose and not centering. Is my analysis correct? I intend to replace the spring and want to ensure its correct installation.

Thank you in advance for any help.

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While I don't have a 1033 to examine and since there have been no replies, yet.  I thought this information may be of some help.

Here is a link to a webpage showing the relevant sections of the Greenberg's repair guide for the Lionel 1032_1033_1033M_and_1232 Multi-control transformers.

It has an exploded parts diagram showing the 1033-98 centering spring that may be somewhat helpful, but it doesn't doesn't list the specs for the 1033-103 resistor wire.

Here is another link to a OGR topic discussing a 1 Ohm 10 Watt wire wound replacement resistor in a 1033.

Last edited by SteveH

Steve,  thanks for the info. Have to get out my ELECTRONICS FOR DUMMIES to grasp all that I read.  FYI...could not salvage the old resistor wire assbly which put me in trouble. As a sub, I simply added "a wire" where the resistor one was connected. Don't know if this is good or bad.  Near the end of the dialog you referenced,  someone wrote...if a diode was added that replaced the rectifier, the resistor wire assembly was not needed.  Trying to absorb this info.

Just getting (about 4 months) into tinkering with o gauge world things ....really very interesting.  Appreciate what the 30's, 40's and 50's people accomplished in producing "toy train world things"!

Thanks again for jumping in to my question.

I have a 1033.  I replaced the diode, cord, installed an auto circuit breaker, and kept the resistor wire that was on there.  The centering spring is not "crossed" on either side of the casting that the handle mounts to (whistle control shaft).  It just looks like it was wound up and inserted through the holes in the bakelite top where it is retained by the "ears" on the whistle control shaft.

20220427_12341320220427_12342720220427_12352420220427_123539

When I rebuilt my KW I used a Zener diode which eliminated the need for the resistor, but for the 1033 I would just get anything around 1.8 Ohms at say 10W and substitute it for the wire if the wire is shot.  Anywhere from 1 ohm to 2 ohms should work.  1.8 Ohms is the resistance of the original wire.

Something similar to this:

https://www.mouser.com/Product...X%252BOJHNA6vogb4%3D

John

EDIT:  Just so you know, my whistle handle doesn't 100% center itself either.  It completely centers itself if I turn the handle to 11:00 , but not quite all the way if I turn it to 1:00.

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Last edited by Craftech

John,

Thanks for your help.

1) Actually your first spring pic gave me a lot of insight. When I first tackled (literally) my 1033, the BOTTOM lead was fed through the RIGHT hand slot and the TOP lead went to the LEFT slot! I think this resulted in reducing the springs tension capability.  What you have is what I termed "crossed".

2) "get anything around 1.8 Ohms at say 10W and substitute it for the wire if the wire is shot.  Anywhere from 1 ohm to 2 ohms should work.  1.8 Ohms is the resistance of the original wire."  As I mentioned to Steve in an earlier reply, need to open my ELECTRONICS FOR DUMMIES.  To install the resistor you referenced, I would connect a separate wire to each end of the resister, tuck the resister someplace in the casing, then attach the wires free end to the two spots where the old resister assembly was soldered.  Is this correct?

Appreciate you assistance!

First of all is there anything wrong with the resistor wire that is there?

If it is shot, you would solder two wires to the place where the resistor wire went and then solder the other ends to each end of the new resistor.  Adjust lengths accordingly.  If you buy the surface mount type like I linked above there are mounting holes that will allow you to fasten the resistor somewhere to the frame with small zip ties.

John

Last edited by Craftech
@Craftech posted:
...1.8 Ohms is the resistance of the original wire.

John, not saying this is wrong, but how did you come to this conclusion?

@Party2035 posted:
...To install the resistor you referenced, I would connect a separate wire to each end of the resister, tuck the resister someplace in the casing, then attach the wires free end to the two spots where the old resister assembly was soldered.  Is this correct?

If the original resistor was installed correctly, then yes.

Referencing the Greenberg Repair manual I linked earlier, shows where the resistor connects within the circuit:

1033 Whistle Circuit

Also described by John W in the other thread I linked previously:

@gunrunnerjohn posted:
Virtually all the PW transformers with a whistle control had the compensating winding that Rob mentions.  It was switched in when you activated the whistle control.  First step was through the rectifier, the second step (lever pushed farther) was to add the parallel resistor to drop the DC voltage to the relay holding level and to boost the track voltage to compensate for the AC whistle motor.  When you look at the whistle control, there are two contacts that correspond to the two step operation of the whistle control.

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Last edited by SteveH
@Craftech posted:
I think you are only asking me about the value and how I found it Steve?
There were posts about it here:
and several on the C.S. Trains website over the years.  Nothing directly from Lionel though AFAIK.
John

John, thanks for the reference.  After reading that thread, I agree with you that any 10 Watt or higher rated wire wound resistor with a value of between 1 and 2 Ohms should work if one chooses to replace the original resistor wire.

As already mentioned, unless the original resistor wire has cracks in the insulation or measures significantly out of spec (~1.8 Ohms) it doesn't need to be replaced.

@SteveH posted:

John, thanks for the reference.  After reading that thread, I agree with you that any 10 Watt or higher rated wire wound resistor with a value of between 1 and 2 Ohms should work if one chooses to replace the original resistor wire.

As already mentioned, unless the original resistor wire has cracks in the insulation or measures significantly out of spec (~1.8 Ohms) it doesn't need to be replaced.

Yes,

The OP never actually answered that question unless I missed it.  I also doubt he has anything that will accurately measure 1.8 ohms, but visual should reveal enough.

John

Last edited by Craftech

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