Multimeter check for Fastrack Switch miswiring

@Craftech posted:

Should be continuity between Track Jumper terminal and all three center rails.

Close to 0 ohms.

@Craftech posted:

Should be continuity between Aux GND terminal and all three outer rails.

Close to 0 ohms.

@Craftech posted:

Should be no continuity between Aux in terminal and any rail.

Continuity to outside rails, yes, but very high resistance, and only as required by the circuitry to illuminate the direction indicators and power the TMCC board, if equipped.

@Craftech posted:

Should be no continuity between Aux in terminal and any rail.

@ADCX Rob posted:

Continuity to outside rails, yes, but very high resistance, and only as required by the circuitry to illuminate the direction indicators and power the TMCC board, if equipped.

To confirm, you are saying that there should be continuity between the Aux in terminal and the outside rails (ground) and that would be the internal resistance of the lamp?  This is with switch disconnected from layout and jumper removed.

Thanks,

John

Just tested an 0-48 remote and

Aux in terminal has continuity to center rail (so that's wrong)

Track Jumper terminal has continuity to outer rails (so that's wrong)

Aug Gnd terminal has no (little) continuity to any rail.

So all three are mixed up apparently.

I guess I will simply reposition them.

John

@Craftech posted:

To confirm, you are saying that there should be continuity between the Aux in terminal and the outside rails (ground) and that would be the internal resistance of the lamp?  This is with switch disconnected from layout and jumper removed.

Well, there has to be or the switch would be dead.  Is there some reason you can't use AC power to test the switch?

@ADCX Rob posted:

Well, there has to be or the switch would be dead.  Is there some reason you can't use AC power to test the switch?

The switch works on track power, but all three are in the wrong place.

The Aux GND gets the split Yellow wire and that won't even reach where it belongs because they put it where the Track Jumper input goes.  So I have to splice and extension in or relabel the base plate.

The two red ones (the one with and the one without the resistor) can be reversed easily.

Pretty poor.

Thanks Rob

@Craftech posted:

The switch works on track power, but all three are in the wrong place.

Ahh... that problem. Check HERE.  Much easier to check with 12VAC than with a meter, as multimeter readings can give misleading indications.

@ADCX Rob posted:

Ahh... that problem. Check HERE.  Much easier to check with 12VAC than with a meter, as multimeter readings can give misleading indications.

Thanks Rob,

John

Follow-up:

Only one out of six was mis-wired.    I supposed that is considered "good".  Had to lengthen and resolder the yellow split wire, but it was only one switch.

Thanks for the help Rob.

John