2 fastrack issues with switches

Your thinking about this to much.Its only a piece of train track.if your that worried about it.Take it to your LHS and have them fix them.Not a big deal.

I had a derailing problem with a fastrack switch that was caused by having a curved section enter the switch. I solved it by adding a 5" straight section between the curved track and the switch. Watch the engine go over the switch slowly, from both directions to be sure the problem is not track geometry. In my case, the 0-8-0 steamer derailed and the diesels did not.

 

I have 40 fastrack switches that work fine. If you are having electrical only issues, then take them back to your LHS for a proper solution. problems with 2 out of 2 seems unusual to me.

 

Good luck. JK

Same here, both RealTrax and Fastrak, insert a straight between the two switches so that long cars cannot have wheels on both switches at the same time, or if a curve enters it.

Problem is not with 2 of 2.  It is with 2 of 14.   Point taken on the distance between switches but the switch still rattles. 

For those of you that are familiar with the inside of these switches and the solves listed your help is appreciated.

Just finished fixing one of these with the chatter. I replaced the microswitches--this did not resolve the issue of the resistor being used as a fuse being blow...(Hidden Under Heat shrink)

 

I tried to work the switch on Aux power. It would not work. I then realized that the

3 terminals for the track /Aux option had been wired in reverse in the factory..

 

The amazing thing is the switch functioned in track power mode when connected on the layout to other track---

 

There were some switches out there.. with bad wiring...this wa in a previous post.

 

 

I recently ran into the same problem with two Fastrack 072 command switches.  With the jumper piece in and under track power the switch operated correctly.  When I removed the jumper as instructed and hooked up axillary power the switch had no power.  I moved the power wire from Aux. in and placed it in the first connection which says "jumper" and switch powered up fine. 

 

Steve, Lady and Tex

bdobson,

Where are the switches located? A single or turn-out to turn-out for a crossover?

 

How are they powered? Use track power with the jumper. They don't pull much power when operated. Less wires.

They are at crossovers and are powered via auxiliary power.

Since it's two out of 14, it's sounds like hassle to bench test them. If you remove them and bench test you can rule out or confirm a switch issue.

 

You are getting bridging between the track transformer and the auxiliary transformer.

 

or your are bridging the two loops.

 

Put the jumpers back in for track power and be sure the switches are isolated for the center rail if they are on two different transformers. I use a 1 3/8" between and pull the jumper and keep the default 6" center to center rail spacing.

 

If you are running conventionally and need the auxiliary power, be sure that you are using a separate power supply and not a channel from the track transformer.

 

This made me crazy. I can't explain it, but these are the configurations that I found worked. I would remove power from one track and the light on the switch would still be lit. I run command mode, so the track power jumper was the easiest for me. I fire them from an SC-2.

 

Edit: I also found that tying both switches to one manual controller(or one SC-2 port) allowed the two different loops to be connected. Perhaps on auxiliary power that won't be an issue. Can't explain that either, but it does.

I fixed one of the switches whose switch lantern wouldn't turn green by opening up the switch and placing a piece of tape on the mechanism that activates the controller light.   Very easy to do and works like a champ.