A surface barrier before gluing down landscape sprinkled grasses and dirts, so they are removable?

I haven't done it, but I suppose you could try some clear or white kitchen cabinet liner paper. It comes in long rolls and is sold at most big box stores. The only down side is that it probably would not come off easily if you ever wanted to remove it from the plywood.

I have done most of my scenery directly on the table with a "devil may care" attitude for the future (which I'm sure to regret one day).

BUT... recently I have made a few smaller scenes on the foam poster board ($1/sheet at Dollar Tree) or on the Plastruct knock-off sheets you can get a various big box hobby stores.  These are in positions where I was able to scenic on the table right up to them to hide the edges, or in places where the edges didn't show.

I always start a layout by laying down a layer of brown butcher paper.

There is no real downside. In any event, the next layer up is almost always foam core, Homasote, or carved pink foam. Even tiny differences in elevation make for a much more natural landscape than a dead-flat tabletop.

15 lb. felt ( tar) paper the stuff roofers use for under payment.  Also works great for inside of tunnels. Just staple  it down.  When you want to change things it easily pulls up and just toss it and start anew with another piece of felt.

If you use Elmer's Glue-All as the glue to hold down your grass and dirt (I dilute mine 1 part glue to 4 parts water) then all you need to do later to remove the grass/dirt is spray with water, wait 30 minutes and clean it off with a putty knife.  Very easy.

If you use yellow wood glue or matte medium to hold the stuff down, these glues are waterproof and you will be in chisel territory.

We've been wanting to make a load of gravel to put in the quarry dump truck...similar concept I think because we want to shape it to fit perfectly in the dump truck without messing up the paint...was thinking of laying wax paper in the dump truck, then filling it with the sand/glue mixture (matching the quarry surface) to form to the shape of the truck...when it dries should be able to take it out/put it in whenever we want.  Not sure if this is totally relevant to this topic but the topic kinda reminded me of our plan.

@Avanti posted:

Pete, is the 364 log loader on a slight incline?  If so, does it operate well like that?

@JD2035RR posted:

Pete, is the 364 log loader on a slight incline?  If so, does it operate well like that?

The track is on a slight incline, but the loader is level. Works fine.

I suspect you would have issues if the accessory were non-level. The conveyer would probably work fine, but the thing at the top that redirects the logs into the car is finicky under the best of conditions.

If you're looking for a peelable surface you might want to look into this...

https://www.dipyourcar.com/pag...-peeling-and-removal

You'd probably have to sand and seal the plywood really, really, really well first so it wouldn't glue itself into every little crack and crevice and it isn't cheap, like $300 a kit not cheap. But it is Plastidip so you might be able to seal your plywood and then roller on some Plastidip from a gallon can and work on top of that. I know many costume makers paint over Plastidip they have coated foam with and it hold up to minimal flexing so it might work on an immovable surface like plywood. Then when you want to remove it it will peel off like a big sticker, just don't use the Plastidip primer, it will make removing it almost impossible.

Jerry

Thanks for all of the great tips.

Tar paper is one of the least appreciated construction items of all times. I use it for tons of stuff! I use 30 lb, but that would probably work.  Bid even the "felt" side is "imbedded" with tar, so I wonder how any paints or glues are really going to stick on it?

Elmer's White Glue, at 1/4ths strength, may be the simplest solution.

As far as a liquid plastic, Harbor Freight sells cans of liquid plastic, for coating wrench and plyer handles.  I wonder what would happen if I just poured some of that out on the board?    (Id better test it out on a separate piece first!)

Thx,

Mannyrock

@Bob posted:

If you use Elmer's Glue-All as the glue to hold down your grass and dirt (I dilute mine 1 part glue to 4 parts water) then all you need to do later to remove the grass/dirt is spray with water, wait 30 minutes and clean it off with a putty knife.  Very easy.

If you use yellow wood glue or matte medium to hold the stuff down, these glues are waterproof and you will be in chisel territory.

By far the best solution! Warm water even speeds the removal up! Our club has made many changes and last minute repairs of track and switches before shows and this is how we do it!