Advice on glue for coal

Marty ROGR Forum Member

I'm doing my first customization. I'm replacing a plastic coal load with scenic express O-Scale lump coal. It this works, I will probably redo my tenders, but as that requires actually cutting out the plastic coal, I thought I'd start here.

1) I filled the bottom of the car with black foam, sculpting the top, to the shape of the load

2) I spread Woodland Scenics Foam Tack glue on the foam, in circles, starting at the car walls and worked my way up to covering the foam with coal.

Here's where I get lost, or at least would like advice. Once it dries overnight, I will see what didn't stick and where my bare spots are.

How would you adhere the next coal?

Is there a spray I can use that will harden it all in place?

I will use masking tape and paper to protect the car, from the spray.

Any other thoughts?

thanks

Marty

1/1/136:02 PM

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Jim PolicastroOGR Forum Member SUPPORTING MEMBER

Marty,

I use full-strength Elmer's white glue to adhere coal for loads. I find the full-strength glue easier to control than diluted glue.

There is no need to cut out the plastic coal loads IMO. I apply the full-strength glue to the plastic load carefully with a brush and sprinkle on the coal. Smaller size coal works best for this application. Most tenders have too much electronics inside that I think need the protection of intact tender shells.

Jim

1/1/136:20 PM

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Dewey TrogdonOGR Forum Member MEMORIALIZED MEMBER

I do it similar to Jim.

I brush on a generous coat of undiluted white glue and sprinkle on the coal to the depth required with a spoon. After a brief period to let the base application tack, I liberally dribble on my 50/50 white glue/ wet water mixture to "fix" the top side coal granules. Dries out clear and rigid.

Coal pile made on foam below...

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1/1/136:47 PM

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Marty ROGR Forum Member

Nice coal pile, I don't see any gaps

I like the idea(s). They lead to a second question. I didn't use styrofoam, I used a softer foam, like you might find in a camera case (I get it at work, all the time). I think I need to be concerned about the foam acting like a sponge, for the water. Don't I? Also the coal and foam are in the car pretty good. I can start over, with rigid foam, this is an experiment, after all.

1/1/137:40 PM

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Dewey TrogdonOGR Forum Member MEMORIALIZED MEMBER

Since the foam is enclosed in the car I think it should be okay. Also you will first be coating it with undiluted glue which should close up any openings[I guess you would need to take the coal out to coat the foam but dribbling a 50/50 mixture should penetrate and fix the granules]. Unless the foam cells are exploded it shouldn't absorb much water anyway.

That is real coal I bought from Brennan's Better Ballast.

1/1/138:05 PM

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Mike CTOGR Forum Member

I had done some coal loads with a construction adhesive. Currently on the work bench is a Locktite PL Premium. I have used a PL 400 and PL 500. The construction adhesive, applied heavy, can add detail. The amount of coal or in my application Black Beauty, a bodyshop paint removal abrasive, is minimal. I also spray painted the finish project with Krylon Gloss Black 51601
Heavy application of the construction adhesive generates internal gases that vent via the cracks shown in the pictures. The cracks can be worked out as the adhesive hardens.

Template is a piece of masonite board.