Advice on Replacing a Lionel Cab 1 Remote

I don’t know the answer to your question.  But the Legacy CAB-2 is so much more tactile and precise.  The Legacy system has four times as many speed steps; everything runs better, and it has additional features.  I’m not sure which locos you have, or how many.  But personally, I wouldn’t hesitate to upgrade to a CAB-2 and Legacy base.

Thanks, Ted, for the suggestion.  I have 4 TMCC units: A/B Sante Fe diesels (6-18128 and 18129), LIRR GP 38 (K-line 2439-0262), UP GP 30 Diesel (6-28860), and a Christmas Rotary Snowplow (6-81441).  If I add any TMCC units it will be Lionelchief +2.0, not Legacy units.  I recognize the full features of the Cab 2, but not sure I need all that.  Thanks,

Michael

Have you considered Legacy L it's like a step between the two. 

I've replaced several broken antenna's on Cab-1's with 4-6 inch flex antennas.  My stuff is away at the moment but I can dig it out the part numbers if you're interested.  Far less expensive than going Cab-2.

Fred

To answer your original question, you need the matching blue BASE1L with the blue CAB1L.

Michael Pags posted:

I've got a Lionel Trainmaster Command Set (6-12969), consisting of the Cab 1 remote (6-12868) and Command Base (6-12911), but I would like to upgrade the remote to one that does not have the extending metal antenna...

Have you considered a rubber antenna like THIS?

As usual, the advice on this forum has been incredible.  Thanks, GRJ for the answer to my question, and Rob for the link to the other thread on rubber antennas. Based upon price and my level of needs (not Legacy), I'll go with the flexible style antenna.  I've got COAX lying around, so may start there. My layout is in a 9X14 room (has a half wall with bar top for viewers outside of room) so I do not need a long antenna for broadcasting long distances. Thanks,

Michael

If all you want is to replace/eliminate the antenna, how about soldering/attaching a foot of wire to the collapsed antenna shaft and letting it flop around and hang down? You can try some clip leads to see how it works.

As mentioned above. Go with the Base1L and Cab1 L. You’ll never look back. Be prepared, you’ll want to buy a legacy engine. 

Success!  Followed advice using the COAX cable route.  Went to local electronics store and purchased a BNC connector and short COAX cable with the BNC connectors on both ends. Total cost: 4 bucks!!  Needed to bore out the hole to accept the BNC connector, but not a problem. 

Here are before and after photos. The cable is light weight, flexible, and removable.  It's a bit longer than the one shown by GRJ, but I am a bit anxious to cut it to avoid getting it too short to carry the signal. 

Thanks again for the great advice.  Saved me a bundle.

Now I just have to rewrite my letter to Santa!

Michael

Bravo! There’s always too much pressure to upgrade to the latest electronics in this world. This hobby should be fun without the remote being akin to the latest smartphone release. You saved enough money to buy (or have Santa deliver) a new LionChief locomotive.

George

Way to go.  Nicely played!  I have two Cab1s I need to clean.  Most of the buttons don’t work anymore.  Fortunately for what I need now the Tr and number 1 buttons still do so I can run my prewar standard gauge trains  with it through a TPC3000.  Don’t need Legacy that’s for sure.