advice wanted on transitioning from mainline track height to siding height Ross switch

Probably the easiest way is to use wood shims and make the transition as gradual as you can.  Test it with the locos you are worried about before you make it permanent.  The longer the length of the transition the smoother it will be and look.

Art

Don't begin the transition right at the switch.  I used Gargraves flex track on my layout, and extended the cork several inches (at least 4 or 5) past the diverging end of the switch, then used a few shims past that as Art suggests.  I fastened the Gargraves track that was on the cork securely, then fastened the track to the siding height about 8 inches or so past the cork.  The stiffness of the track results in a very smooth transition.

I use the 1/4" foam roadbed.  So, for my transition to the table for my 10-track yard, I bought some 1/16" foam sheets.  I created a step-down over several feet to the bare table, it worked great.

I use RossBed and I sanded down an incline to the plywood from a Ross 11degree turnout……

Peter

A surform tool will let you taper your cork to make as long a transition as you want. Some of mine are too short. I would suggest maintaining the same grade standard for the taper as the rest of the layout. Tapering the cork to half thickness will provide enough visual difference while retaining the sound deadening quality of the cork. You can also use three half-widths of HO cork roadbed on sidings and taper to that.

Avoid placing track switches on the tapering grade.

With cork roadbed, you can also use a surform tool to create superelevation on curves.

@Robbin posted:

I would like to transition from my O gauge cork roadbed height main line to a lower height (directly on plywood?) for my siding and steam engine service track/yard.  I am coming off of a Ross #6 switch.

What suggestions are there for doing this transition?  I have some large locomotives that will be going through this switch like an EM-1 an 2-10-4 so I dont want to just come off that height without some gradual and controlled transition.

Thanks in advance

I would also recommend transitioning on a straight at least 8 inches past the curve. That way longer engines will transition on the straight even if there is an issue the engine should be fine.

also for a real RR note it was not uncommon to have sidings 1 much lighter rail and 2 you would bang into the siding. On my layout sidings and storage track are O-27 straights it gives the impression of much lighter rail. Also the lack of ties blends in with lightly used and maintained.

Cedar shingles are shaped exactly for your application. Just cut the profile you need from the whole shingle.

Thanks these are really great ideas!  Super helpful as I am changing my approach to incorporate the suggestions.  Thank you all!