Air compressor question

Without seeing it, and not being able to put my hands on it, I can't make any suggestions for an air compressor, (don't want to run the risk of injury).

They are relatively straight forward, but there are compressor oils & other items not yet mentioned.

Have you looked at harbor freight, they actually have airbrush compressors that are probably a lot smaller & quieter & better suited-

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/a...air-compressors.html

 

I would replace the check valve between the compressor head and tank. This keep the air in the tank and from bleeding back into the cylinder. This is most likely a better unit than you can buy today so I would try to fix it. Go to Granger or some other industrial supply and ask about a part. Ken

Harbor Fright!  The two local HF stores do a booming business in returns involving anything with an electric motor.

 

Stuff is cheap and yes, I know there are a lot of guys that have dodged a bullet but no more for me.  Stuck on  job once too many times to stand in that bullseye again.

 

Homer/lowes is too reasonable priced and too easy to return stuff for me to go anywhere else for common tools.

 

There are several (deceptive) ways to rate an electric motor and their ratings can confuse the average person.  tt

I have been down this road before. It is not worth it. I would bag the old compressor. Too much that is ready to go wrong, or is already wrong with it. For less than $100, you can go to HD or Lowes and get a brand new small compressor with a tank. If It dies just take it back to them. The quality is much better than HF.

 

My 2 cents.

 

Chris

LVHR 

Thanks, guys, for all the help and input.  You've definitely put me on the right track.

 

Regarding just replacing with an entirely new unit, that's certainly the easier and more carefree route to take.  But I guess I'm one of those people who hates to throw something out if it's servicable.  And for me, learning something new, figuring out the problem, and being able to fix it is half the fun.    At this point, I've spent only $13 (for a new fan belt), and it's actually quite useable for airbrushing in its current state.

 

Fixing the check valve so the tank retains the air longer is a plus.  I'm in the process of tracking one down.  Home Depot didn't have it, but as Ken suggested, the Grainger catalog shows what I need for under $15.  There's a Grainger not too far from me, so that's my next stop.

 

I'm careful about the potential dangers.  The tank is in really good shape.  It's rated for 450 PSI, and I'll be using it only up to about 60 PSI or so for my airbrush.  I've got decent enough mechanical skills to have reasonably good judgment in not doing something stupid.

 

And if the thing ultimately conks out on me, Harbor Freight it is!

That 60 year old compressor has reed valves and does not have a check valve like newer compressors. they were notorious for leaking back. Thats the first bad thing about it. second I can bet my boots A) you don't regularly drain the moisture from the tank and B) have absolutely no idea of the condition of the inside of the tank and after 60 years it's a bomb waiting to go off.
Save yourself some grief and junk that POS before it hurts you.
You can get a nice brand new one from harbor freight that'll run your airbrush and put air in the wifes tires for under 100 bucks and we won't have to read about you in the paper.

David

The reed valves are just very flat strips of metal that open and close to let the air in and out of the cylinders.  They probably seal against a ground flat surface on the head.  One of the problems with reed valves is that if the head or valves get rust on them they do not seal.  Since the compressor has been out of service for many years, rust might be the problem.  You could try taking the head off and cleaning any rust off the vavles and seats.

I have to agree with DPC on this one. The older units are great when in use on a regular basis (everyday) and properly maintained. I've rebuilt many over the years, however, the cost of replacement parts changes the playing field.

Harbor Freight has a few low cost units (under $200.00) that have the guts to work for airbrushes. Remember, you get what you pay for. Stay away from the diaphram tankless models. I'm using a C.H. 30 gal two cylinder that's more than enough for my home workshop/ trainroom.

Great for the valves but still doesn't address the problem with the tank.
When air is compressed the humidity in the air is compressed along with it.
This causes condensation inside the tank. The inside of the tank will sweat just like a cold coke can in the summer. Most modern compressors have a drain valve on the bottom of the tank and most folks who don't regularly use a compressor never bother to drain them. They mount a dryer on the compressor to keep the moisture out of their paint but that doesn't stop the tank from rusting on the inside because of the water.

That 60 year old tank may have never had a drain and therefor is a bomb waiting to go off. The shrapnel from that exploding tank could injure or kill you.
Is it worth it? not to me.

David

Since the operating pressure was not mentioned, I did not say anything on the tank.  The condition of the tank could go either way depending on weather the compressor pumped more water or oil.  To place an old air tank in service, I would do a hydro/ hammer test at 150% of the relief vavle cracking pressure.