american flyer 30b transformer

MAYBE A PICTURE WOULD HELP

 

THANKS,

Here's the instruction sheet for American Flyer dual control transformer.

 

franktrain

hello and thanks for the replies. franktrain, i thank you for the pdf but i need the inside of the transformer wiring. thanks anyway. as far as a picture here is a link.http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/-OgAAOxymwBSP1Fp/$T2eC16ZHJIMFHJ!tutLsBSP1Fodw,Q~~60_1.JPG?set_id=880000500F

Chuck Harrington's nifty website myflyertrains has repair manuals for almost all Flyer stuff, including transformers.  here's a link to the 30B wiring diagram:

 

http://myflyertrains.org/gallery/album211/18B_30B_2

 

As I suspect you know (but just in case) most older transformers should have their AC powercord replaced - since you are digging around inside, its a good time to do it.  You can find 'replacement' cords on eBay or, since they aren't anything special, the local hardware store will likely have 2-prong cords (or three if you want to add the ground).  If you do get a a cord that can only be plugged in one way (fatter prong on the neutral side), then pay attention to the wiring diagram so you can get the wiring 'standardized' should you add another transformer. This is to ensure you get them phased correctly.

A quick footnote to my previous post - if you look at the wiring diagram for the 30B, I suggest you follow the usual convention and have the hot AC lead go to the power on/off switch (in the case where you replace the cord with a three-prong plug or a phased two-prong plug).  In terms of the cord replacement, as noted earlier, they aren't anything special, but you do want to make sure they are at least 16AWG...

hello richs09. i seen this manual but for me i need to see what wire goes where. for example, the wires going from the handle to ?. for the most part, the transformer i have doesn't have many of the wires connected to anything. thanks again

bullfroggs - I'm a little uncomfortable trying to troubleshoot a transformer from a distance - especially without having the insides laid out in front of me.  Its important to remember that unlike troubleshooting/repairing most other toy train/model railroad electrical or electronic devices - where the maximum voltages don't get beyond 10 or 20 volts, the primary side of a transformer operates at 120 VAC and house current.  So its possible to get in trouble. Its one thing to burn out a motor or fry a solenoid that is working at 15 VAC, but quite another to have something wired incorrectly or simply inadvertently have something break loose inside and lead to a fire or worse, a serious electrical shock.

 

If the internal wiring has been messed with, that could be a sign that the transformer might not be working correctly and the previous owner got 'stuck' trying to diagnose/fix it.  So I think my first advice would be to see if there is a local hobby shop or electrical shop that can look at it - or recommend someone who could.

 

If you have it taken apart and could post pictures, some of us might be able to help further, but with all due respect, if the wiring diagram on the website I posted earlier doesn't make sense to you (its a bit hard to read, without blowing it up a bit), then maybe you don't want to tackle it.  And I say that only because the transformer does, eventually, get plugged into the 120 VAC.  No offense intended.

 

- Rich

 

Try my website. There's a page on rebuilding a 30b under other transformers
Www.tranz4mr.com

hello. richs09. i see where you are coming from. the 120 volt wires are all in tack. i'll post a picture. tranz4mr. i looked at your site and this is almost what i am looking for. your wires from the handle go where? if you had a wider picture of this transformer, this would solve my problem. adcx rob. thanks for the diagram. but not what i need to wire this thing. tranz4mr. since you have repaired these transformer, when does the red lights light up? thanks for all the help. 

tranz4mr's pictures and instructions are quite helpful - as he notes, the picture #6 shows the roller and wire on the bottom side of each handle.  These control the  5 to 18 volt variable AC outputs, which are the middle terminals shown in picture 2.  So for the newer 30B - as discussed by transz4mr - the wires go from the roller arm to the respective 5-18 volt terminal on the inside of the "output" plate of the transformer.  Its been a while since I've had either my 30B or 18B apart, but I recall a tab on the inside to which the wire is soldered.  This is indicated in the transformer diagram on the myflyertrains website.

 

If you have the older version of the transformer, then the roller arm is attached to the transformer core and there is a mating piece that extends down from the rotating handle.  This is the version shown in the myflyertrains diagram.  I've attached a marked up version indicating where the wires go.

 

In terms of the red lights - they only go on when the circuit breaker is tripped - one for each side of the transformer.  Otherwise, the only light that should be on is the green light.  Tranz4mr has a nice discussion about how to check whether the circuit breakers are actually working ok.

 

Again, I'd recommend checking the power cord - even if the insulation seems intact, flex it a bit and see if it is stiff.  The old cords tend to harden and then crack when flexed. 

 

If you do have the older version of the transformer with the two-piece variable voltage controller, you will need to pay attention to get the "U" -shaped tabs lined up with the roller arms so as the handle is turned the roller moves correctly in both directions.

 

By the way, tranz4mr, Doug Peck at Portlines hobbies has the replacement rollers and pins for AF transformers.  I'd guess that Tom Seccia does also.

I have an 18b, basically its the 30b without the gauges. I love the deadman handles too.

 It does have a unique quirk, and I haven't figured out the exact cause, but I suspect the center graphite "button" under the cover, or the dissimilar metals. 

 The issue is with electronic trains. They don't like it.

On Tmcc trains, either the sound doesn't work, or the whistle blows non-stop or maybe randomly. A Williams BL-2 had issues with it too.

 I'm curious as to whether anyone else has encountered this, or is mine throwing bits of DC out all alone. I cant see anything wrong visually. Its in great shape inside too.

For those that haven't noticed these do not have a DC offset whistle control.