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Well the move to the new house is complete, the new train room is painted and on last Wednesday the bench work kit came from Tim Foley and Mianne Custom Benchwork. There have been a couple of ongoing posts regarding Tim's product including my opinion of it but since the frame work is the starting point of any layout other than a carpet style, I will post some pictures of the entire progress of the layout as I go. My idea here is to document what can be done by almost anybody who wants to do it. I can make that claim based upon the fact that I spend most of my time in a wheelchair. This was a major factor in my decision to go with the Mianne Benchwork system.

 

A word of advice regarding Tim's benchwork system. The Mianne system is designed to be both expandable and re-arrangeable. For that reason his measurements are based on center to center dimensions. This means if you order a 4'x8' bench kit, that 4"x8' measurements are from the center of one cross member to the center of the opposite side. This allows for you to add another 4'x8' module by just adding the cross members and 2 additional legs. The 2nd sheet of plywood will butt right up against the side of the first on and be supported by the overhang from the first cross members. My recommendation is to do what I did. Send Tim a drawing of your layout plans, discuss the room dimensional requirements/restrictions. He is more than happy to help you come up with the frame work you need. He will send you a cad drawing of the assembled bench work for your review. Study it, go back and measure again and discuss with Tim some more. In my case he even printed the assembly with the plywood top shown so that I could verify the actual table surface dimensions for fit into the room. If you are doing a wall to wall layout be sure to leave yourself some space so that you will have access to the hardware facing the wall. Use him as an adviser so that each party is on the same page.

 

So how about some pictures of the system going together? Thing to remember is that this was don by myself with no assistance and completed in less than 8 hours. My requirements were that I could not exceed 9'6" in width and each leg of the "U" shaped frame was to be 6'6" not including his overhang requirements. The center to center measurement mentioned above..

 

So this first picture shows 1 leg with the locating pins in place as well as 1 locking pin. This pin will lock the leg in place by way of the cam in the cross member.

 

Pins & Lock Pin

The dowel pins (2) simply press into the leg and the locking pin screws in by means of a Phillips head screwdriver.

 

This next picture shows the locking cam pressed into the frame member with the frame member in position to be attached to the leg. Once pressed into position by hand a 1/4 turn of the locking cam secures the leg and frame member together.

 

 

Cam Lock

 

The next step is to attach the second leg which completes the leg set. In my case I was able to set the first leg on the floor with the cross member pointing upwards, Just place the leg over the pins and locking pin as before, give it a 1/4 turn and the leg set is complete. I apologize for the fuzzy picture.

 

 

Addition of Leg #2

 

Repeat this process until all the leg sets are complete. Once all the leg sets are complete, the next thing is to start connecting the frame members which will form the outside of the frame work. This picture shows what I called section 1.

 

 

Section 1

 

The following pictures just show the additional frame members being added in order to complete frame work sections.

 

 

Section 1 & 2

 

SEction 2 & 3

 

 

Section 3 & 5 - No Cross Members Yet

 

Section 1 & 4 With Cross members

Notice in the last picture that the middle cross members have been added. This is where I had to deviate from the instructions due to being in a wheelchair. It was not possible for me to get inside the completed frame sections to add the dowels and locking pins for the midsection cross members. I had to remove the front frame rail, add the hardware to the back rail, add the cross member and then put the front rail back into position and secure cross member hardware and secure. The cross members all secure the same way as the frame rails did, with the 2 locating dowel pins and the single locking pin. The cams are installed on the cross members themselves.

 

So that completes the assembly of my Mianne Custom Benchwork. As I said in my earlier post on a different posting, the ease of assembly and the quality of both the materials and the engineering design of this product more than justifies the cost. My kit was around $500.00 without the shipping. Can you comprehend the time and frustration levels that I would have to deal with if doing this the "old fashioned" way. Try to do all that while sitting on a chair!

 

But wait it gets better! The following pictures show the plywood setting on top of the frame work AND the track laid out. Plus Sir Toppum Hat even sent Thomas to Oregon to do the initial testing. After all I had to be able to run trains for my Granddaughter on Christmas! What would Christmas be like without any trains. So within 24 hours worth of time we went from and empty room to this:

 

Left Leg

Center

Right Leg

I still need to get 2 sections of plywood cut to fit the 2 triangular sections that you see. Tim and I added these since the track work came so close to the inside corners. So now you are all caught up with me! After Christmas the fun stuff will begin so check back often. Now I gotta go buy one of them tall Lionel Stools so that I can reach far enough to do the scenery.

 

Before I go any further I must thank Dave (DoubleDAZ) here on the forum for creating the track plan for me. And again I cannot thank Tim Foley at Mianne enough for his product. Good quality work and engineering still does exist here in the USA!

 

Here is the track plan as created by Dave. I did have to modify the one leg to make it the same as the other one.

 

track plan

 

The attached file is the actual final documentation I recieved from Tim Foley at Mianne. Notice that he even created cut dimensions for me.

 

 

Attachments

Images (11)
  • Cam Lock
  • Addition of Leg #2
  • Section 1
  • Section 1 & 2
  • SEction 2 & 3
  • Section 3 & 5 - No Cross Members Yet
  • Section 1 & 4 With Cross members
  • Left Leg
  • Center
  • Right Leg
  • track plan
Files (1)
Last edited by Strogey
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Ken,

 

That is simply freakin' amazing! I can't express how proud I am to have been a (small) part of this project and that it is turning out so well for you. Less than 24 hrs and you've already been able to run a train, I'm envious.

 

I intend to travel through your neck of the woods in 2016 or 2017 and I'd very much like to see it in person. We were coming through there next summer after we visit Glacier NP, but I've had to change those plans and head to Wisconsin instead. So, another West Coast trip is planned for sometime in the not too distant future. We missed Crater Lake the last time through and we want to spend more time exploring Portland and the surrounding area. Maybe we'll be able to work something out.

 

I look forward to further photos as you move along. I hope this helps make your Christmas one of the best.

Nice and simple layout.  What brand track are you using?  Also, I have to comment on how close to the walls the track looks.  It may work for Thomas, but get any longer locomotives or rolling stock and you might find them hitting the walls on curves.  How far is the edge of the rail ties from the wall (Or center rail from the wall.)?

Originally Posted by sinclair:

...  Also, I have to comment on how close to the walls the track looks.  It may work for Thomas, but get any longer locomotives or rolling stock and you might find them hitting the walls on curves.  How far is the edge of the rail ties from the wall (Or center rail from the wall.)?

have to agree... if i remember correctly for module standards, 3.5" from track center to the outer layout edge (in your case, the wall) for O72 curves, minimum.

Ken,

 

Given that the original dimensions have changed a bit and my design was done with a "join error" of .20 (should have been 0), I've redone it to better show clearances and new track pieces. I've color coded all the pieces, so you can do the math to get total distances if you need them for "cut to length" pieces. Sinclair and overlandflyer are correct in pointing out that you need to consider engine swing-out, especially steamers, so you don't hit the walls near the curves.

 

 

Strogeya

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Images (1)
  • Strogeya
Files (1)
Originally Posted by ChiloquinRuss:

Dave, don't forget Train Mountain when you visit Crater lake (35 miles away).  Russ

 

http://www.tmrr.org/

Hey, that's looks like fun. Since we plan to stop in the Klamath Falls area for a couple of days, I'll have to make sure we're there on a Saturday. We have 2 railroads here; 1 just up the road that has 14.5 miles of track and 1 over in Scottsdale with just 1 mile of track. Thanks for the tip.

Well time for a quick update. I am currently in the process of screwing down the Homasote on top of the plywood. My next task will be to paint the Homasote some "earthy" brown color and then while track is apart paint the rails rust color. Then it will be time to assemble track and add inclines to back half of the main loop. Will add some pictures later since I am using my phone to write this.
Dave,

For whatever reason the layout did not need any "short" tracks other than 5". Nothing seems "forced"  into the configuration. Can you verify for me using your software.

Now for the inclines. I am going to use Woodland Scenics incline system. I want to attempt to attach the track to the foam and then attach the assembled sections to the table top. I have the 2% grade system. Would you please do a track plan with the grade starting at each of the switches on the mainline and then progressing up the back like your previous plots? Break it off at the long back straight and let me know what the height is. Also where does it hit the 3" point.

If anyone has suggestions on how I should do this I am open to any ideas. I guess this is where the wheelchair complicates things!

Ken,

 

I think I said early on that you probably wouldn't need the 'short" tracks depending on how things "fit" when actually laying the track. That said, I don't think there's any need for me to try to validate things. If the tracks seem to fit without being forced and you've run your trains without problems, I would think things will be just fine. However, if you still want some kind of validation, let me know if your layout looks like the one I've included. I assume you must have used some regular/long tracks in place of the 3.5"/4" ones, so I changed things where I thought those places might be. If it is, then there's your validation.

 

Now, when it comes to the grade, you might be better off leaving it at around 2" instead of the 3". The photo shows where the inclines begin and end with the height set at around 2" for the green section. This results in a 1.8% grade. If you make it 3", the green section shrinks to just the 2 middle tracks (or less).

 

I've never used the Woodland Scenics incline kit, but it's designed to rise 4" in 16'. If I understand things right, that means each 2' section rises 1/2". Therefore, you'd only use the first 4 sections to get to 2" in 8', the approximate length of the purple sections. If you try to use 6 sections to get to 3", that will mean both purple sections will meet close to the middle like I said earlier.

 

Of course, if you put a bridge in the middle (see other photos), I believe you can adjust things a little bit or cut a bit off the ends of the last incline section to make things fit. Even without adding a bridge, you can always simulate a covered bridge in the same area with some cardboard, etc.

 

Now, as far as the wheelchair goes, if you haven't permanently attached any track, you might be able to assemble things using the layout as a table. If you start with the top left or top right sections, you might be able to move things toward their final locations as you work on the next section. I don't know how you plan to attach the track to the inclines, each section to the next or the final assembly to the layout, but if the incline material doesn't easily slide on the layout, you might put down some newspaper or even wax paper to help things slide around as you work. No matter what, I think you're going to need some help adding the bridge (it's actually 2 bridges in the photo) or connecting the 2 sections with just track. I do think the Woodland Scenic incline is the way to go, it seems easiest.

 

Of course, there is no operational need to even do an incline. I admit I didn't think of the wheelchair when I suggested it. If I lived close, I'd come help.  

 

 

 

Strogey2

Strogey3a

Strogey3b

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  • Strogey2
  • Strogey3a
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Last edited by DoubleDAZ
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