Anyone use Roberts Brick Mortar Formula?

I just painted it on and let it dry and then rubbed it off. the longer ir dried the harder it was to wipe off aka more elbow grease. I would probably recommend a dry or slightly damp rag if the dry wasn't working. Hope this helps.

I've used it many times with great success. But, all my buildings are always painted ones. Maybe Roberts doesn't work all that well if you're using it on the Ameritowne buildings the way they originally come. That's sort of a shiny surface. If you don't want to paint them, you can always just spray auto primer on it. The rust color version is a brick-like color and a flat finish. 

 

Jerrman

I have never used that product, but if you suspect the surface of the building is causing the problem, perhaps the following would be helpful:

1) Wash the building with soap and water prior to application to remove any manufacturing oils, and/or
2) Spray paint it with Dull Coat prior to application.  This is commonly done prior to weathering buildings, rolling stock, etc. so as to make weathering materials stay on the surface.

 

Sure hope it works.  I just ordered a botlle of it from Klein's for the Korber buiding I have just finished building.  The good news, I guess, is that I have painted everything.

However, I will follow all suggestions as stated above.

Eddie

Steve,

I think that part of the problem is that I painted all of the buildings with Acrylic without a prior primer.  When I wipe with the damp cloth, some of the acrylic is coming off as easy as the the mortar.   I was actually thinking it might look better if I didn't paint the building first or coated the acrylic with something to keep the mortar from adhering to it.

Since the acrylic did not hold well on the plastic, what would you recommend in the future as a primer for the Ameritowne buildings?

Thanks, Sandy

Hi All:

I have tried a lot of different ways to apply mortar including the diluted paint methods. I thought I found the trick (light weight spackle) until I tried Robert's Brick mortar. You can see the results below with an MTH Freight Station I repainted.

A few things to be aware of:

1. WRT Robert's mortar - it has to be THROUGHLY mixed bfore applying. I let it dry for a few hours then wiped the walls off with a damp rag at a 45 degree angle.

2. I have a feeling that if as the above replies state the Ameritowne walls were not pre-painted then they also may have not be washed or other wise cleaned of mold release agents (ie wax). No paint will stick to this stuff.

3. Robert's warns of issues with the structure of DPM walls but this may also be an issue with Ameritowne walls. The design of the btick on the walls necessitates a wiping angle of 45 degrees to the brick face.

Joe

 

 

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Mix it, Mix it and then Mix it again.  I have used it and it works.  I will be using more of it soon as I start pulling my buildings out for this year's layout

I've used it on a MTH building, and it came out great. However, the building had fairly deep spaces between the bricks, so this may have helped. I tinted the mortar with a little black ink to avoid the bright white look.

I like a brick building to look well-maintained...not overly "weathered". This is why I usually avoid the mortar route.

I used it with good success, but the key was painted the buildings with red primer first.

Sandy,

 

I definitely defer to those who have already used the product.  Perhaps they did not let it dry as long as you did.  I have only used acrylic paint for the mortar, but I had to be careful not to let it dry too long.

 

Since you are having a challenge with it sticking to the paint, you might consider:

- not letting it dry as long.

 

- Otherwise, try to seal it with something like Testors Dull Cote (oops...I spelled it wrong last time), or Krylon Matte Finish, and then apply the Brick Mortar.  Note these will dull the paint, so if you don't want to dull it, consider a clear coat.  But it would be great if you have a something to try it on on first to confirm the Brick Mortar will stick to it.  It should, but I am not certain.

I too have used it with very good success.  Many (most?) plastic models have a very thin layer of a lubricant designed to help the plastic slip out of its mold (mold release).  The plastic should first be washed with soapy warm water than allowed to completey dry before painting or in this case using the mortar mixture.  I learned this the hard way.  If you have already assembled the model you may still be able to gently wash down the walls with a soapy water solution.  Let us know if this works and how the mortar solution then adheres.

Ah, I think you just identified the problem. You should really prime first, then paint these type of walls. Any cheap auto primer will work, including the ones from Wal-mart. Either gray or red primer. Then, after it thoroughly dries, you can use acrylic paint, spray paint or oil based. After the top coat has dried you can apply Roberts Mortar. You can let it dry as little or as long as you like. If you let it dry a long time, you'll get a slight residue on the brick front which is nice if you're looking for a real aged look. If not, then just do it after 10-20 minutes or so and you'll like the effect. Just use a damp rag as recommended. 

 

Jerrman

Great - thanks.I'll pick up the Dullcoat.   Can I apply the weathering over the dullcoat and then apply another layer?  I would like to have weathering over the brick and mortar.

For primer, is there a particular kind of primer that is recommended for plastic?  I'll stop by a hardware store tomorrow.

 

You can apply the Roberts before or after the Dullcoat. Depends on what effect you're looking for. Any kind of primer will work as long as you let it dry adequately. 

 

Jerrman

Here is the OGR review of Roberts Brick Morter.

 

http://www.robertsbrickmortar.com/RBM_Article1.pdf

 

George

George,

Thanks! Ehat should solve a lot of issues.  I just hope my project looks half as great as the one in the article.  Somehow, I have a knack for screwing these things up.

Eddie

Update on using Robert's Brick Mortar:

In a Feb 20 reply (see above) I was real pleased with the use of Robert's on an MTH building I had repainted. After using the mortar on this building I thought I found the secret.

Then I applied it to a bunch of AmeriTowne fronts I am building for a customer. The quality was no where near the same. Some areas of the fronts took a heavy deposit, some light and some would not accept the mortar at all. I had to rework the fronts several times then resort to copious amounts of India ink wash. The wash did wonders to even things out.

Some pictures are shown below.

 

 

 

 

The Bremen's liquor sign is hiding the area that would not accept any mortar.

I am guessing at this point the quality of the mortar is depended on the depth of the bulding front mortar line. I compared the MTH building to the Ameritowne fronts and noted the mortar lines on the MTH were deeper. Though not shown in the pictures, the Ameritowne concrete foundations and stair ways also have deep lines and took the mortar extremely well. 

I went back and reviewed the OGR article on using Robert's Mortar and took a look at the photos. I don't think any of the samples used are Ameritowne product so may have had deeper mortar lines as well. Mr. Barrett please correct me if I am wrong here.

Up next is a series of Korber buildings for another customer. I know from experience the mortar lines are shallow so I am expecting problems here too.

Joe 

I ran a small experiment. I took a left over piece of an Ameritowne wall, washed it with soap and water then taped off one part and painted the other. After removing the tape I cleaned the unpainted portion with alchohol t remove any tape residue. I then applied Robert's Brick Mortar to both areas, let it dry and wiped it off. Both sides looked just fine. So I have to back track on mortar line depths. Might be with the building fronts I applied too much paint and filled in the mortar lines myself??????

  

          Wall with brown paint on left side

 

 

          Robert's Brick Mortar applied and allowed to dry.

 

          Finished wall

Just started working with Korber walls. The overall result was very good. There are little 'nooks and crannies' that were difficlut to get to w/o taking all the mortar off. In some areas I had to go back and re-apply. The picture below is after two washes of diluted India Ink in water.

 

I kinda like that look!

Where did you get this building?

This is an MTH Freight Station. I don't have the part number though.

Joe

Yes I have and I like it.  I recently took an old K-Line Pharmacy kit and tried to make it look real.  It came out pretty good.  I used it on this building.  Matt

The first couple of times I put it on heavy.  Big mistake.  Since I started using it in a thinner application it is much easier to work with and the results are much better.  It needs to dry before wiping off.

Matt...you really transformed that old K-line building.  I have several of those and now you have inspired me!!  I am going to rework them as I have never really liked their "look"....  Great job Matt!!

 

Alan

Alan, I like your and LaKeeta's new avatar picture.

Thanks Roger......she is my partner and buddy!!

 

Alan

I'll try to find it, reminds me of a friend's building.  Did it come with Fruit Packers Supply signage or did you make that?  I drive by the real FPS every day.  

MTH 30-90408 Freight transfer Warehouse

Taking it apart for painting is fairly easy - screws and press fit parts.

WRT decals I took them off the internet.

Joe