Was thinking of using Gargrave 2 rail track and then laying blackened N Scale rail down the middle. Anyone try this before? What were the results?
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I can see why you would think "N" scale rail would be advantageous from an aesthedic point of view, but it would still be a third rail. Seems like alot of work. But that's just my opinion.
And the rollers are going to do what at a a switch?
Since the third rail wouldn't have movable points and I'd be using DCS, I don't see turnouts as being an unresolvable issue.
You might just "ramp-up" the third rail to the same height as the turnout rails, to avoid the otherwise inevitable bump.
One of the most famous O scale model railroaders of our time, John Armstrong, used an outside-third-rail on his famous Canandaigua Southern layout. I think it was fairly common in the earlier days of O "scale" modeling. The picture below is from John's layout, and illustrates how he employed the outer rail. Note the pickups on the locomotive, visible on either side of the pilot. I have to agree with Dan though, seems like a lot of work. Have you thought of going to 2-rail O scale?
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I have been collecting trains since I received my first set from Santa in 1954, I have no desire to "start over" in 2 rail O Scale though I think the equipment is nice. Add to this my desire to distribute my trains to my grand children and other young members of my immediate family when I'm too frail to enjoy the hobby.
Two accomplished Forum members - Marker and RonH have used N rail pretty effectively. You could search for them and perhaps they will see this thread and chime in.
The 1950s Delta Lines in New Orleans by renowned O-scale modeler Frank Ellison was also an 'outside 3rd rail' as is one today in Cincinnati's RR museum if I'm remembering correctly.
Seems like a lot of work and at the end of the day the center rail is still there. Obviously your goal is to make the center rail as inconspicuous as possible so why not N or Z gauge rail?
There are a couple of guys using 2 rail Atlas track and the spiked down an N scale center rail. It looks really nice and the 3 rd rail is barley noticeable. Theres a whole post on it in here somewhere but I dont remember what its called
I thought about doing this when I was transitioning from 2 rail O to 3 rail O. I did some test tracks using Atlas 2 rail track/switches...decided it wasn't worth the time.
Now I become so accustomed to 3 rail, when I look at the "real" thing (track) at a railroad crossing, my first thought is that it looks kind of "weird"...something wrong with that track!
seems like way too much work, besides the fact that a BLACKENED center rail will stick out like Rudolfs' nose on a dark moonless night. Every layout that sports a black center rail actually accentuates that center rail more than the other two rails. If it were me, I would go GarGraves track..........and leave the center rail as close as possible to the colour of your ballast. I saw a layout recently that had the rails done as described. MUCH less noticeable middle rail!
N scale is small. You may want to use code 100 HO. Hagerstown Md roundhouse used HO for many years with no problems even over switches. They since have redone the layout but went with Gar graves
Trainmstr posted:Was thinking of using Gargrave 2 rail track and then laying blackened N Scale rail down the middle. Anyone try this before? What were the results?
Never tried it, but it sounds like it'd look great. Whether it'd be worth the trouble or not is entirely your call. If it were me, I don't think I'd bother blackening the center rail, though.
If you do try it, please post some photos, so we can all see how it looks.
Sounds like a DIY "Super O"
Trainmstr posted:Was thinking of using Gargrave 2 rail track and then laying blackened N Scale rail down the middle. Anyone try this before? What were the results?
I would recommend you look at late 1950's through 1960's Lionel Super O track if not for use at least for inspiration. This track uses a copper strip down the center. It is supported in plastic ties that taper up in a pitched roof style from the inside of the outside rails with the copper strip carried like a ridge rafter down the center. This does much to conceal the center conductor. I think it looks much better than any of the blackened center rail attempts that are on the market. Why Lionel didn't resurrect this concept instead of coming out with FasTrack which is just ugly; simply is lost to me.
Bogie
I use N scale third rail on some straight sections where I photograph a lot. It is very effective. I tried and tried to do turnouts, but some equipment shorted out so I gave up. Once installed the rail is durable, but honestly, it's a bite in the bum to do.
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OldBogie posted:Trainmstr posted:Was thinking of using Gargrave 2 rail track and then laying blackened N Scale rail down the middle. Anyone try this before? What were the results?
I would recommend you look at late 1950's through 1960's Lionel Super O track if not for use at least for inspiration. This track uses a copper strip down the center. It is supported in plastic ties that taper up in a pitched roof style from the inside of the outside rails with the copper strip carried like a ridge rafter down the center. This does much to conceal the center conductor. I think it looks much better than any of the blackened center rail attempts that are on the market. Why Lionel didn't resurrect this concept instead of coming out with FasTrack which is just ugly; simply is lost to me.
Bogie
Cost.
Rusty
Rusty Traque posted:OldBogie posted:Trainmstr posted:Was thinking of using Gargrave 2 rail track and then laying blackened N Scale rail down the middle. Anyone try this before? What were the results?
I would recommend you look at late 1950's through 1960's Lionel Super O track if not for use at least for inspiration. This track uses a copper strip down the center. It is supported in plastic ties that taper up in a pitched roof style from the inside of the outside rails with the copper strip carried like a ridge rafter down the center. This does much to conceal the center conductor. I think it looks much better than any of the blackened center rail attempts that are on the market. Why Lionel didn't resurrect this concept instead of coming out with FasTrack which is just ugly; simply is lost to me.
Bogie
Cost.
Rusty
Yeah like this is a poor man's hobby.
Bogie
I would love to see Super O track come back, especially if Lionel uses solid "T" rail for the outside rails.
ricka1 posted:One of the most famous O scale model railroaders of our time, John Armstrong, used an outside-third-rail on his famous Canandaigua Southern layout. I think it was fairly common in the earlier days of O "scale" modeling. The picture below is from John's layout, and illustrates how he employed the outer rail. Note the pickups on the locomotive, visible on either side of the pilot. I have to agree with Dan though, seems like a lot of work. Have you thought of going to 2-rail O scale?
It's just my opinion but outside third rail is much more objectionable than normal Lionel three rail track. Other than subways some interurban lines and places like Grand Central, there is no outside rail on the big Lionel set. I'm sure someone will find that I have missed an obscure line somewhere, but that's okay. I get it, back in the day there wasn't many alternatives to using outside third rail.
I can only speak for myself as a post-war type operator. To some, a center rail is like sticking needles in their eyes.....LOL
Super O fans, that's why we now have MTH Scaletrax!
Guys, when it is done, you still have 3 rails. WHY would anyone do this?????????? If you want a super scale look, go 2 rail.
Ditto Marty. It's like these 3r guys installing KD's. You still have 3 TUBULAR RAILS and BEEFY WHEELS.
Funny!
Too much work for me but I have seen it used for overhead electric.
People do what they do because it enhances their enjoyment of the hobby.
Why does someone work on electronics on toy trains?
Why does someone weather toy trains?
Everyone is free to enjoy their free time/hobby anyway they want.
Well, it's good to hear others have done this. I haven't made a final decision but as BRR said, "everyone is free to enjoy the hobby as they want". Why not embrace someone wanting to try something different instead of insinuating they're "wrong"?
Also the point that the blackened rail will "stick out" is not true if you ballast realistically. On the NY&LBRR, the ballast between the rails was 75% black from grease, cinders, etc. Don't forget if you rode a train in the 50's most likely when you went to the toilet and looked down you saw the "landscape" go by. That's the etc.!
brr posted:People do what they do because it enhances their enjoyment of the hobby.
Why does someone work on electronics on toy trains?
Why does someone weather toy trains?
Everyone is free to enjoy their free time/hobby anyway they want.
Perhaps so to a certain point. 3r has its limitations on track and rolling stock.
As for track options - Again, super O or MTH Scaletrax is the only other choice that I can see using for middle rail frowners.
I'm doing a street running module with black top cardboard on the main street lines to camo the thin black center rail. Sidings will be two rail since power units only stop at the beginning of the spur anyway. One can also add reach cars for deliveries and pick-ups.
Back in the late 80's I had a layout with the older Atlas 2-rail O scale track and turnouts, code 148? The track was very inexpensive back then. I forgot if I used N or HO-scale flex track rail for the center. Was able to modify the switches too, which was a little extra work. I had post war and MPC lionel, and they all ran fine. I do remember having to 'dremel' cut away the guard rails on the turnouts.
If I ever make another layout, I would go with MTH scale-trax, or take the jump to 2-rail O-scale.
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Finished the newest section of code 148 with N scale center rail. No ballast yet, but very hard to see third rail.
The only reason I do this is because when I came back to o scale 4 or 5 years ago my wife gave me a scale K-Line Hudson. Now I have a heavy investment in custom detailed 3 railers. Oh well.