Apparent Electrical Issue With MTH Real Trax

Lighted lock-ons have 4 green lenses that are lit when the track is powered.  This is normal.

Their must be a gap on both frog rails to adjoining tracks for the switch to operate correctly.

When using track power, a jumper is placed across the two left-hand terminals of the switch.  The black wire from the controller goes to the center terminal and the red & green to the right terminals.  If powering the switch with fixed voltage, the jumper is removed.

Thanks, John!

I really appreciate your help.  As noted, this layout has been wired (including fixed voltage for the switches) for what may be more than 5 years now, and the problem arose when I had to replace a faulty right-hand switch.  

Given the awkward location of the switch, I did make the very serious mistake of removing the fixed voltage ground, and power wires from the 2 (of 5) screw terminals without carefully recording their precise placement.

Also, what does the jumper I have to remove look like?  Is that the 3/4 piece of copper (that looks like carpenter's "dental molding") packed with the switch track, or is it a  different "jumper" already inserted under terminals 1 and 2, since those terminals appear to be connected when shipped from MTH?  (Pages 9 and 10 of the below manual look helpful...)

Thanks again!

P.S.:  Hopefully, I have located the Operator's Manual for convenience:

https://mthtrains.com/sites/de...ction/40as17023i.pdf

Looking at the above manual, the descriptions and diagrams on pages 6, and 10 seem most directly helpful.

In this regard, Figure 9, on page 10, seems to fit squarely within your answer above.  

Now, I'll have to check to which terminal I have affixed the power wire, and, whether I have removed the jumper.  I do know that there was a "loose" jumper in the box, although the loose jumper looked like more than a "2 position" jumper.

Finally, do you know if leaving this jumper on would cause each of my four, fixed-voltage wired switch tracks to show both red and green simultaneously?

Thanks again!

P.S. Thanks for the reminders about the lock-on light....

Dennis, yes you are correct. The jumper is the dental molding thing. Make sure it's removed from under the screws if your using accessory power. The two screws closest to the lighted switch mechanism or mechanism slot, are for your accessory power. Looking at the diagram on page 6 of the manual it is confusing, because the drawing shows the jumper installed with the accessory wires also installed on top of the jumper. That's misleading until you actually read that the jumper must be removed for accessory power hookup.

Both the red and green lenses of the switch track are supposed to be lit at all times. But on your switch controller, only one should be lit.

Thanks, Dave!  With the gracious assistance of you and Jon, I have this figured out, and, finally worked it out.

I too found the manual confusing - notwithstanding the well-designed diagrams, and the significant detail.  It was the "three prong" - two terminal copper jumper physically attached (imbedded) to the switch itself  that was the problem.  This is particularly true, since there is a brand new, "5 prong" jumper included in the box.  

I did realize a few minutes ago, after finishing the repair,  that both lights on the switch box remain on. It is just the lens color denoting the position of the switch mechanism that switches color from green to red.  Over the years, I have had a number of track systems, including Super-0, and I just didn't pay close enough attention.

Thanks again to each of you!

Dennis, you may already know this but in case you don't, if you need to change the switch lantern from being green for the straight through and red for curve, you can just pop it off turn it and reinsert.