Skip to main content

Hello All,

 

To start, I have finally got to a point on my layout to hook-up the TMCC components.

I am using Atlas O 21st Century track (nickel). I had purchased the track in 1999-2001, has been

sitting in boxes until now (a real long story).

 

When testing out the Command Control, I initially ran an F3 A-B-A setup and all ran fine.

So I try another loco for a test.

I had purchased a Black Penn GG1 (6-18343) used, I had tested this loco out with TMCC on

0-31 tubular track and all was well. But when trying this GG1 on the Atlas track I noticed sparks

flashing when passing the turn-outs.

 

Visually, it seemed that the GG1 drivers were larger than the other locomotives. I measured the depth

of the driver from the radius to the outboard edge of the driver. The best estimate I can get with

my caliper is 0.195”-0.197” depth (the variable is where the caliper was sitting on the radius).

I measured my other loco’s at random, and they all seem to have the same dimension.

Hmmm…wonder why sparks from the GG1 only?

 

The sparking occurs when the GG1 passes the diversion route on the switch (the diversion route

is powered by different block). I have disabled the under wire connections on the switch, power is supplied

on each of the 3 sides.

 

I have made a sketch to illustrate where the condition happens. 

Has anyone had this happen? Should I trim the power feed (rail) on the diversion route?

 

 

SWITCH_SPARK

Attachments

Images (1)
  • SWITCH_SPARK
Last edited by FlatNickel
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

FlatNickel-

 

Although Atlas and Lionel have different rail profiles,  I would first look to see if the transformers that provide power to "A" and "B" are in phase. If the transformers are out of phase, it could explain the sparking. To check, connect a lightbulb between the ground terminal on transformer #1 (powering the "A" feeds) to the hot terminal on transformer #2 (powering the "B" feed). If the light goes on, the transformers are in phase; if not, reverse the plug on one of the transformers.

 

-John

Thank you for your suggestion John,

 

I did check the phasing out, here is what is happening.

 

The power sources are PH180's with the connection cord cut. I have the wire with the tell tail ridge as neutral, and the clean wire as hot.

These are connected to TPC300's. 

 

What I checked. For sanity I checked the plugs, even though they have the polarity blade on them.

Checking the input to the TPC's from the PH180's, all checks well

Checking the output is where I get the out of phase (hot to hot).

Track 2 to Track 3 check out, Track 2 or Track 3 to Track 1 does not, the multimeter shows voltage.

 

This is leading me to believe that I have a drop on Track 1 backwards, but then again saying to myself, this should lead to a short and trip the breaker.

 

Right now, I am a bit lost (more than normal  

 

 

John,

 

The PH180's have the molex connector snipped off, crimp terminals applied to the ends of the wired to facilitate the connections to the TPC 300s. On the paired wire, the wire with the ridge as common, the other as hot.

 

Your comment about a recall made me double check the input side if the TPC300s.

2 PH180s were purchased about 2000, part of the ZW setup they were offering back then.

The other 2, I acquired last summer.

 

I researched a bit more on phasing, I see that each of the transformers should be set so the output voltage is equal. My initial test they were not equal on the output settings.

 

So I set all 3 TPC300s to command so they would output 18v each. Checked for phasing and all are in phase!

 

This brings back the original question on why the sparks.

 

Flat Nickel

I believe you will find your problem is the clearance between the curved hot rail and the straight closure rail shown in your picture. Most likely a small piece from the engine wheel set side frame is shorting. The closure rail normally is dead neither power or ground attached. When the train is running the straight thru route the engine wheel set makes that rail common from the opposite outside rail. The side frame or wheel then just touches a part of the hot diverging center rail and arcs n sparks. Just take a small flat file and bevel the end of the hot curved rail slightly away from the straight closure rail. It should only need a small amount taken off at a 45 - 60 degree angle and I think you will fix your problem.

Post

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×