Atlas Geeps... Ready to Roll!

Nice......  I assume there listed on Shapways now?  .     Can you contact me off line.?

Wow, Mario.

Mario

I was just on shapways.  You have one Atlas that is listed as experimental. Is it ready or are you still fine tunning?.  Getting ready to drop another order. As for off line email disregard. Took some digging but found your post on the PAs which answered my question. They should work with both MTH FA2 and Williams FA1. Ironically the MTH FA2 is already rides low compared to the PA, go figure.

Doug

suzukovich posted:

Mario

I was just on Shapeways.  You have one Atlas that is listed as experimental. Is it ready or are you still fine tunning?.  Getting ready to drop another order. As for off line email disregard. Took some digging but found your post on the PAs which answered my question. They should work with both MTH FA2 and Williams FA1. Ironically the MTH FA2 is already rides low compared to the PA, go figure.

Doug

Doug,

There should be three versions. 

First is the traditional style that I've done up until now, with a full surrounding box around the Kadee box  where it slides in. This comes in two versions, one that is open below the coupler box and one closed.

Lastly, the "experimental" one has just the angle plate above the coupler box and the Kadee box is all that is surrounding the shank.

Oh, and these are specifically designed for the Atlas GP7 & 9s, with a notch along the top that snaps into place on the pilot. They are design to be exact width of the pilot hole, but taller than the opening on the pilot and the bottom will need to be sanded for a tight fit. If you force them in without trimming, they may break. 

Thanks for designing these, Mario.  I have a pair of Atlas GP7's (powered and non-powered) that I will "3-rail scale" now that you made it so easy!

A couple questions for you or anyone else that have used your pilot coupler pockets and spacers...

1. I see that most items are available in both black and white, and if I'm not mistaken, each color is made from a different material.  What are the advantages of each?  Does one take paint better than the other?  Looking for some real-world experiences/recommendations!

2. Your latest offerings have a version with a closed bottom below the coupler pocket.  I'm no expert, but that seems more realistic looking than the one with the opening below the pocket.  Again I ask, what  are the pros and cons of each design?

Thanks...and please keep up the great work!  The long-awaited AtlasO RS3 is finally on its way.  I'd love to see you do that one down the road!

Oh, I forgot about the PA/FA question. 

If the FAs already ride low, scale height is a scant 3.67" off the rails, then go with the "-L" version for lowered units. The spacer is a 1/4" thick (0.250").  

Let me know how it works out! Especially since I have a set of FA-2s to do (and I KNOW Norm is waiting!).

thanks,

-Mario

I probably order both due to the Williams FA 1 and take it from there. I should have the MTH GP30 done today. I also have enough GP 7/9 to do both Premier GP 9 and both Lionel GN units arriving today.

CNJ #1601 posted:

Thanks for designing these, Mario.  I have a pair of Atlas GP7's (powered and non-powered) that I will "3-rail scale" now that you made it so easy!

A couple questions for you or anyone else that have used your pilot coupler pockets and spacers...

1. I see that most items are available in both black and white, and if I'm not mistaken, each color is made from a different material.  What are the advantages of each?  Does one take paint better than the other?  Looking for some real-world experiences/recommendations!

2. Your latest offerings have a version with a closed bottom below the coupler pocket.  I'm no expert, but that seems more realistic looking than the one with the opening below the pocket.  Again I ask, what  are the pros and cons of each design?

Thanks...and please keep up the great work!  The long-awaited AtlasO RS3 is finally on its way.  I'd love to see you do that one down the road!

I like the black for my NYC units, it's a no-brained. But I have heard the white works great and takes paint really well, and Suzukovich, Norm or LaidOfSick could comment on that. They've got the most experience with painting the white. 

As for the RS-3s, if they are close to the RS-1's coupler mounting system, check this out: https://ogrforum.com/t...ly=40145252294739965

I have revised the coupler mount for these, and my first test set should arrive today. I'll let you know how they work out. The pilot spacers are factory Atlas. 

Thanks, Mario.  I'll examine the RS3 when it finally arrives.  

I'm hoping those guys (or some others) will also chime in with their painting experiences with the black vs. white versions.

I like the look of the closed gap below the coupler pocket on your Atlas GP7/9 version above...it seems more prototypical to me, at least in most cases.  When that version is available I'm still curious why a person would choise/use the open look.  I'm sure there's a reason, just don't know what it is!

CNJ #1601 posted:

Thanks for designing these, Mario.  I have a pair of Atlas GP7's (powered and non-powered) that I will "3-rail scale" now that you made it so easy!

A couple questions for you or anyone else that have used your pilot coupler pockets and spacers...

1. I see that most items are available in both black and white, and if I'm not mistaken, each color is made from a different material.  What are the advantages of each?  Does one take paint better than the other?  Looking for some real-world experiences/recommendations!

I prefer ordering the strong and Black for two reasons. 

1. One Just a little lite sanding then Prime and paint.

2. They don't compress when bolted down.

3 If I need to trim they don't melt using a dremel set a low speed with a cutter. When adapting to MTH and Weaver Pilots( Lionel GP30&GP9)

The White defiantly need to sand. Will soak up the paint, and melt easy when trimming with a dremel

https://ogrforum.com/t...pt-1-mth-sd45?page=1

2. Your latest offerings have a version with a closed bottom below the coupler pocket.  I'm no expert, but that seems more realistic looking than the one with the opening below the pocket.  Again I ask, what  are the pros and cons of each design?

Thanks...and please keep up the great work!  The long-awaited AtlasO RS3 is finally on its way.  I'd love to see you do that one down the road!

You can always fill them in but also take in consideration of the prototype your modeling. Some in real life do have a tooth missing.

You ask why the open space under the coupler?

...because that's how they came from the factory. 

Joe it just depends on the road whether or not that space is completely filled in. The ATSF Zebras have a gap under the coupler.

My 1st set of black kits should arrive today. I ordered black just because my GP9s are already black, but I will still sand the grainy texture and paint them.

CentralFan1976 posted:

You ask why the open space under the coupler?

...because that's how they came from the factory. 

Well I guess that answers my (dumb) question now doesn't it??  LOL...thanks Mario!!

Thanks as well Suzukovich and Doug for your answers to my questions.

Doug

My Zebras will get the full treatment. Only issue is I still cant figure out how to get the shells off.  Yep you all can laugh.  Which screws so I can mark them?

Actually, it's a great question...  take a look at most first gen diesels and the pilots were wide open. Some, like FMs, were scarily so. 

But, its was even more road specific. 

The Central, for example, had full pilots on their Geeps, but Alcos and FMs were pretty open. 

So, while Doug ordered the open ones for the ATSF, I ordered the closed. Like Suzukovich. 

suzukovich posted:

Doug

My Zebras will get the full treatment. Only issue is I still cant figure out how to get the shells off.  Yep you all can laugh.  Which screws so I can mark them?

 

Well Im in San Diego for a couple days to run trains in Old Town so I can't show ya at the moment.

I remember there are 6 total. 2 on each end and the 2 in the middle lol If they are identical to mine, the middle ones are different.... 1 silver self tapping screw into the plastic and the other one is a black threaded machine screw into a brass threaded fitting. No idea why.

The handrails must be popped out of the cab (all 4) and the cab has to come off by itself first. Then the body comes off leaving the walkways separate.

3 jumbo margaritas into dinner, thats all I remember at the moment.

CentralFan1976 posted:

Actually, it's a great question...  take a look at most first gen diesels and the pilots were wide open. Some, like FMs, were scarily so. 

But, its was even more road specific. 

The Central, for example, had full pilots on their Geeps, but Alcos and FMs were pretty open. 

So, while Doug ordered the open ones for the ATSF, I ordered the closed. Like Suzukovich. 

Its still road specific.  My Atlas Zebras will get the open. The GN units get the closed. Also I need to source the Dynamic Brake housing as 688 was installed in 1959.  Lionel got it wrong 

I am waiting for some parts from Shapeways.  I ordered one part in Black strong and flexible as I thought it might save painting.  I've realized after the fact that parts printed in black take a lot longer to finish than parts printed in white.  I'm sure it's not as commonly utilized as the WSF, so maybe it takes longer for them to fill a tray and optimize their print job?  

At any rate, I'm frustrated by the slow production time.  All my other parts (in FXD) have been ready to ship for at least a week, but I'm still waiting for this last one to finish.  Perhaps most frustrating has been watching the status indicator go backwards from "In Production" to "Pre-Production" and then back again.

There's nothing to be done about it at this point but try to be patient and wait it out.  But this is my first print from Shapeways and I'm anxious to see how the quality turns out.

Jim

big train posted:

I am waiting for some parts from Shapeways.  I ordered one part in Black strong and flexible as I thought it might save painting.  I've realized after the fact that parts printed in black take a lot longer to finish than parts printed in white.  I'm sure it's not as commonly utilized as the WSF, so maybe it takes longer for them to fill a tray and optimize their print job?  

At any rate, I'm frustrated by the slow production time.  All my other parts (in FXD) have been ready to ship for at least a week, but I'm still waiting for this last one to finish.  Perhaps most frustrating has been watching the status indicator go backwards from "In Production" to "Pre-Production" and then back again.

There's nothing to be done about it at this point but try to be patient and wait it out.  But this is my first print from Shapeways and I'm anxious to see how the quality turns out.

Jim

For the most part from order to delivery is about 2 weeks when ordering Marios stuff. I only order the Black. I think a lot has to do with traffic as a whole. They only have so many printers.

big train posted:

I am waiting for some parts from Shapeways.  I ordered one part in Black strong and flexible as I thought it might save painting.  I've realized after the fact that parts printed in black take a lot longer to finish than parts printed in white.  I'm sure it's not as commonly utilized as the WSF, so maybe it takes longer for them to fill a tray and optimize their print job?  

At any rate, I'm frustrated by the slow production time.  All my other parts (in FXD) have been ready to ship for at least a week, but I'm still waiting for this last one to finish.  Perhaps most frustrating has been watching the status indicator go backwards from "In Production" to "Pre-Production" and then back again.

There's nothing to be done about it at this point but try to be patient and wait it out.  But this is my first print from Shapeways and I'm anxious to see how the quality turns out.

Jim

I'm also waiting on parts from Shapeways, and mine have done the same thing!

There's one part in the whole order that has been stuck in pre-production; but they already printed 3 of the 4 of the SAME part.  Why did they stop at 3 of this part, and WHY is it stuck in pre-production?

uggh!

Thanks,

Mario

One down, two to go

Laidoffsick posted:

One down, two to go

Wow, it Looks REALLY good, Doug!!

I told Norm his Legacy GP7s were too clean for his layout then realized who am I to talk. So I had to kill the shine too.

Doug the GPs came out great. Looking forward to doing mine.  

Mario. Just did a test fit Using the old style SD40 Mount on my Atlas SD40. Looks like for minor sanding to fit and trimming on the back end of the mount similar to what I had to do with the SD24. It will work in the Atlas SD40 pilot. 

Additional information on the Atlas GP 7's   You can order them undecorated. They come with parts for either, dynamic brake blister or straight side.   Here is a Photobucket slide show of my custom Atlas GP7.