I’m switching out of fastrack to atlas o and I’m having trouble pushing the 40” flex track sections together with themselves and other pieces. It’s destroying my hands at the same time. What’s the trick here? I don’t want to force it and break it. I try wiggling it but the plastic push clips under don’t want to go together.
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I usually have trouble with Atlas track when the rails are out of alignment. Make sure the rails haven't popped out of the plastic molded rail spikes that are holding the rail to the ties. That usually causes rail alignment issues which means you won't be able to push the pieces together enough to engage the plastic clips.
Alternatively, is this really new track? Maybe it's just fresh and stiff?
I wear those leather gardening gloves for track assembly sometimes because it wrecks my hands if I have dry skin.
It's brand spanking new.
It's probably going to be stiffer then. I would get those leather gloves. You can find them in the gardening section. For what it's worth, Atlas tears my hands up just when I'm handling it if the ties have that sharp plastic edge. You're not alone haha but Atlas/Ross/Gargraves are worth the effort.
Try putting the two pieces together without the metal rail joiners. Then take them apart, insert two rail joiners into one piece and a third into the second piece - then connect the two. The first assembly may flex the plastic parts and make them easier to assemble on the second try.
MELGAR
@MELGAR posted:Try putting the two pieces together without the metal rail joiners. Then take them apart, insert two rail joiners into one piece and a third into the second piece - then connect the two. The first assembly may flex the plastic parts and make them easier to assemble on the second try.
MELGAR
MELGAR has it!
I usually cutoff the plastic clips. They aren't necessary to hold the track together if you are going to screw it to the roadbed. NH Joe
Remove the very end plastic ties, usually 2 strips, then follow Mel's method. You should be able to connect with much more ease..
You need a couple of things to join Atlas flex -- larger needle-nose pliers and a little patience. You use the pliers to force the track sections together.
The patience part comes in if you're forming curves. First thing to note is that you should not be bending any track if there are fixed curves available. When forming a curve, you need to anchor the end ties to the track base using #4 screws. Then, screw down one side of the fifth tie from the end, then start bending the track to follow the curve. Anchor ties as you go.
Ross Switches has PDF templates of various curve sections. They're free to download, but you should use Ross switches rather than Atlas as they're better quality, less expensive, and more readily available than the Atlas (we're having trouble getting Atlas replacements at the club).
@MELGAR posted:Try putting the two pieces together without the metal rail joiners. Then take them apart, insert two rail joiners into one piece and a third into the second piece - then connect the two. The first assembly may flex the plastic parts and make them easier to assemble on the second try.
MELGAR
Works but what a pain. I need a better pair of gloves while doing it. It’s mainly the 40” curved that are the problem. The others seem fine. Also I am just keeping them straight but it was all I could find a few months back.
@Robert Cushman posted:I’m switching out of fastrack to atlas o and I’m having trouble pushing the 40” flex track sections together with themselves and other pieces. It’s destroying my hands at the same time. What’s the trick here? I don’t want to force it and break it. I try wiggling it but the plastic push clips under don’t want to go together.
You dont want it to "Snap Together with ease"! You want it to be "TIGHT" for good electrical connection!
AMEN !!!
FREDSTRAINS
@AGHRMatt posted:...Ross Switches has PDF templates of various curve sections. They're free to download, but you should use Ross switches rather than Atlas as they're better quality, less expensive, and more readily available than the Atlas (we're having trouble getting Atlas replacements at the club).
Wow Matt, that's a pretty strong endorsement! I've been on the fence about Atlas vs. Ross for years. Your comment weighs heavily on the decision. The big problem is that Ross doesn't make their excellent switches in O36. (I mean, does anyone even build new layouts with O31 anymore?)
A lot of the designs I'm considering require substituting a switch for a curved section, so I can't mix and match brands. Any chance you might email me with more details about your experience with Atlas? Thanks for sharing!
Last question, I k know there are 1000 forums for it, how do I bend the Midwest Cork for curves without gluing anything down.
@Ted S I agree with @AGHRMatt for Ross Switches. They're awesome.
@Robert Cushman I'm not too experienced with cork but bending most straight strips of anything will require you to get little triangles out of it to prevent the material from bunching up. I have to do that for any bends less than 0-72 on my roadbed material.
@Robert Cushman posted:Last question, I k know there are 1000 forums for it, how do I bend the Midwest Cork for curves without gluing anything down.
Not sure why you don't want to glue anything down. The proper use of cork is to glue it to the table.
O gauge cork is made with a perforation along the center line. After pulling the two halves apart they are narrow and flexible enough to bend smoothly to any radius. I have cork roadbed under an oval with O-36 curves. I use sandpaper or a file to smooth the edge of the perforation and beveled edge of the cork. Place the track onto your table, mark the table along the center rail, then glue the outer half of the cork where you have marked the center line. Hold it down with weights until the glue dries. When glue is dry, glue the inner half of the curve tightly against the outer half. Then screw the track down.
MELGAR
@Ted S posted:Wow Matt, that's a pretty strong endorsement! I've been on the fence about Atlas vs. Ross for years. Your comment weighs heavily on the decision. The big problem is that Ross doesn't make their excellent switches in O36. (I mean, does anyone even build new layouts with O31 anymore?)
A lot of the designs I'm considering require substituting a switch for a curved section, so I can't mix and match brands. Any chance you might email me with more details about your experience with Atlas? Thanks for sharing!
If you have the space, consider larger curves and/or an "around the room" layout style on 24-32" deep shelves.
Larger curves will support larger equipment down the road and smaller equipment looks better. All equipment looks better viewed from the inside of a curve.
@AGHRMatt posted:If you have the space, consider larger curves and/or an "around the room" layout style on 24-32" deep shelves.
Larger curves will support larger equipment down the road and smaller equipment looks better. All equipment looks better viewed from the inside of a curve.
I’m using 0-106 outer
0-99 inner loop.
We use Ross track/turnouts with Midwest cork, all 072 or greater. We screw down the track and cork at the same time with no problems.
I didn’t know that cork is often glued down. Please advise why it is glued. (Not trying to be smart).
@Robert Cushman posted:I’m using 0-106 outer
0-99 inner loop.
Nice choice. The one I'm working on is 49.5" Radius (O-99) and 54" Radius (O-108). It's a double-track/double-lap oval. Trying to work in the switching portion. The layout area is 24'6" by 11'6" with a narrow section on one end. The switching branch is 36" Radius (O-72) for four-axle diesels and freight cars of 60' or less, though my six-axle MTH diesels with scale wheels can handle it.
I’m going to try hot gluing the cork down to the sande plywood I have so it’s no permanent.
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