Atlas O Switches - is this right?

link;

http://www.z-stuff.net/dz1000.html

How do you have the switch powered?

I think you have to have three wires connected. One is the power and the other two are for switching. You say it snaps on one way but slow on the other. Are you connected to the acc port on transformer or using track power?

Try connecting to the accessory port. Do you hold the button down or just press and release? Also the switch motor should be very level. I had to add shims on some of my switches. I use a Z-4000 transformer and at first had the switches powered from the 10 volt port, when I switched to the 14 volt port it was a big improvement.

Try switching the two outside leads on the switch machine to see if the inverse happens. If it works the opposite of what you have you will know it is not the switch machine or the turnout, but likely a connection or the control button. Also look for any binding in the turnout itself  if it works the same when the leads are switched. I use the # 57 controllers with a  non-derail board on the Atlas turnouts, once installed they are mostly trouble free. Fred

I run my switches through a MTH accesory interface unit (AIU). I run the hot to 14 v acc port. The two switch leads to the AIU and from the AIU I run a common to the other port on the Z4k. I hope this helps. You can open up the motor carefully and adjust the spring,

and also see whats going on inside.

I have had my best luck with the Atlas machines connecting them to a 22 to 24 volt supply.  Holding the button down for 1 second will lead to coil failures.  Your hope is that the switch motor SNAPS very quickly.  I also never put any screws in the switch itself as the points seems to move better if there is no flex anywhere in the switch.  These machines are very easy to destroy by pushing the button 3 or 4 times quickly. once the machine is stuck, it would be better to switch it back the other direction and then back to the direction you want.  The coils magnetic force is stronger on the plunger at the begining of the throw than at the middle or end of the stroke.

When I was only using 14  or so volts, I burned out six or eight machines.  Since I started using 22 volts, I have not burned one out.

By the way, this advice was given to me by an engineer at Atlas.

Good luck and happy railroading,

Don

Don has it correct.  By under powering the switch motor, one has a tendency to push the button several times to get the switch to throw all the way....and this will cause over heating.  Best to power it per Don's advice and push the button once.  While I don't power any of my switches right now ( I like to walk around with the train and interact with it when switching needs to be done) I have had similar problems and found that what Don mentions in his post above is in fact what makes the Atlas motors work correctly.

Alan

remove any mechanical bind in the switches. Atlas switch machines can be then thrown with a toggle switch or relay contacts using capacitor discharge,described here. I have found they work as well as the DZ 1000 with this method. Even 1000 uf capacitors at 12 volts usually throws them reliably.

www.jcstudiosinc.com/BlogShowT...=411&categoryId=

Dale H

don has the ticket. Higher voltage

I have 17 Atlas switches powered at 14 volts all work great and haven't blown a motor. I use my MTH remote to do my switching.

Check for a mechanical bind.

Dale H

MJB:  Sorry if I miss interpreted that you were only pushing the button one time when  I responded.

Happy railroading,

Don

As Dale H says, check for a mechanical problem. Remove the switch motor cover. It is likely the triangular control arm has slipped out of its groove.

Allan

A couple of small tweaks that may help. 

(1.) Loosen the mounting screws that attach the switch motor to the switch.

(2.) The spring loaded non-derail feature can be adjusted by moving the very small pin and stretching the spring tighter.  Sometimes this corrects errant throw.   Use caution not to power the Atlas, or other momentary switch motors, for more than momentary power throw, they can be easily destroyed.

Stuck button results.

throw with capacitor discharge ,it eliminates the possibility of a meltdown.

Dale H

Don - no problem.  I can see how my post could have been confusing.  Taken out of context, I can see how a detail about my hitting the button and then hitting it again (to see if it made a difference in shifting the rail all the way over) could be confusing.  To reiterate - the reason for my post was because the switch is snapping crisply to one side and anemically, or not completely, to the other.  

As an update - I didn't yet get a chance to try any of the helpful advice posted here. But I should point out that I think it really is a calibration issue with this particular switch.  As I had mentioned above, loosening screws, roadbed flex, etc. are non-issues for my problem as I tested the switch - by itself right out of the box - on several hard flat surfaces.  Wasn’t screwed down or attached to anything else.  And, I also pulled another new RH No.5 switch from its box last night and did the exact same things - and it works just fine.  So basically, back to my initial query – if it’s snapping crisply to one side and not so much to the other, if I take the machine apart and tighten things up, is the a good idea?  I mean, it would probably “fix” the problem, but wouldn’t it also make the thing snap too hard to the side that works just fine now?  

I plan to call Atlas too.  Last thing I want to do is monkey around with a brand new switch and then find out I’ve voided any warranty.   

Thanks,

Peter

As a total non-electrical person, the only "capacitor" I know of is the Flux Capacitor in the time-traveling Delorean.  I'll Google this later. 

As an update - I spoke with Atlas.  Very pleasant people.  I'm posting this in case it helps anyone else:

After asking a few questions about how smooth it operates manually and the surface conditions, Atlas said it could be : (a) the No. #57 unit that's firing the switch being faulty; (b) the switch simply needing to break-in (given manually operating it is just as smooth in both directions) - so try firing it for a few days and see if the problem remains; or (c) there is a problem with the machine itself.

   
Between all the helpful advice here and Atlas input, I have a better handle on possible issues and plan to report back on how things progress - thank you once again for all the help.

Peter

VERY SIMPLY:  I have 52 ATLAS Switches on my Layout. Each one of them working on 18 VOLTS thru a Lionel ASC and a CAB2. Going on 10 Years; I have never burned out one of these Atlas Switches!! What else can I say???

FREDSTRAINS

hi Dale,  very helpful info for the Atlas switch,  i have snap relays hooked up to mine to control  lighted signals, will the capacitor discharge also activate the snap relay?

thanks, Dave

Dave

I am just not familiar with the snap relay so I can not answer your question. It will work with a toggle or relay contacts if wired in the configuration shown. Use just enough voltage and capacitance to throw he switch reliably.

Dale H