I live in the Omaha, NE area. Where, locally, could I purchase foam backing for cardstock models? Or styrene? What thickness would you recommend?
Thank you for your help.
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I live in the Omaha, NE area. Where, locally, could I purchase foam backing for cardstock models? Or styrene? What thickness would you recommend?
Thank you for your help.
Replies sorted oldest to newest
Hobby Lobby? Any local craft shop or hobby shop I would think...
There is 5 Hobby Lobby's in your area.
Any art supply store should sell foam board, or be able to order it. Check near universities or art colleges.
Jan
OK what thickness foam board?
I have only seen 1 thickness foam board for this sort of stuff, it is about 1/4". I use black & white board from walmart.
The common thicknesses are 3/16 and 1/4. I have used 1/2, which is two layers of 1/4 glued at the factory. 3/16 is all you need.
Jan
Staples, Office Depot, Craft Warehouse, Walmart, some Lowes, Micheals, Art Supply Stores, and any picture framing store should have foam board. I use mostly 3/16 and 1/4. Russ
It's also called "foam core" and it's typically 1/4" thick. Very easy to cut and trim, and it also glues well.
I love the name of the tackle/bait shop. LMAO!!!!!!
There is also a type of foam board that features a thin wooden surface. Its a bit more durable and resistant to damage than foam board. Foam board is easy to work with but I never liked the fact that it's soft and dents easily. That is why I use 16 and 24 ply hot pressed artists illustration board. The only thing about this material is that it needs to be braced on all edges with 1/4" sq wood stock to limit warping in damp environments.
3m Spray adhesive and the white glue when needed.
A word of caution: spray adhesive can be very unforgiving; once it grips it doesn't want to let go. When glueing up large sheets one often could use three hands...
I prefer a THIN layer of ***o glue. This gives you a little more wriggle room for lining up edges, working out creases, etc.
Jan
A word of caution: spray adhesive can be very unforgiving; once it grips it doesn't want to let go. When glueing up large sheets one often could use three hands...
I prefer a THIN layer of ***o glue. This gives you a little more wriggle room for lining up edges, working out creases, etc.
Jan
Yes you are correct, however I am adhering it to the Foamcore and then cutting out the Foamcore so lining up has not been an issue.
I like the approach T Mack uses (glue first, then cut) for walls in which the foam board edge is flush with the printed cardstock.
The thickness of the foam board presents a slightly more complex situation at corners. At one side of the corner the foam board must be inset 3/16" from the edge of the card stock so that the foamboards join and the cardstock meets precisely at the corner.
I've been unlucky at pre-glueing the wall with the inset. I prefer to glue up the foamboard corner, then trim the cardstock and glue it to the assembled foam board.
Hey, in the end it's just a matter of what works for you...
Jan
Here is how I worked on my Steel Pipe Warehouse, I folded the corners up so I could cut on the corner and then when I joined the sidewalls, I could just fold over the flap. You can see it is a little uneven at the bottom which trims up nicely with a straight edge. The center windows were cut out completed and removed. I cut a black window frames with some heavy black matte material and printed windows on velum.
great job on the warehouse, Ted.
btw I think the other material that dennis lagrua is referring to isgator board a.k.a.gator foam.I micro mark has some and larger sizes are at dick blick art supplies as well as others.I because of its backing it's much stiffer, doesn't dent and has the properties of working with wood. great stuff but it is more expensive than craft foam board.
jerrman
Jerrman, Yes I understood that, but a few others asked how I was cutting and putting together my structures. Staples had the sheets I use on sale for $2 each, for a bunch of background flats I think anything else is overkill.
Ted, I meant those statements as two unrelated points. it wasn't to suggest that you should have used the other material, gator board. i was only filling in the blank for what i thought dennis was referring to. sorry for the confusion. obviously, you have it dialed in in terms of how to construct cardtock structures. And you r right in terms of using foam board for background buildings. I've done that also while using gator board for the base on dioramas and sintra ( a polypropylene product) to scratch build certain things closer to the viewer.
jerrman
Jerrman,
Sorry of that came across sharp. Some days I hate computers - it never conveys tone of voice properly.
TMack,
Since you are using foam core as a backing are you printing on card stock or paper?
Joe
TMack,
I found one of your posts on another card stock topic and see that you print on papr when using the foam core backing.
Joe
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