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First, thanks to those who replied to my "filler/putty" topic and others posted recently in preparation for adding brass details to a plastic F3 A cab.

 

At this point, I'll be adding brass 45 degree number boards, winterization hatch, handrails, and grab rails.  What would be the best adhesive to use for attaching these brass parts to the plastic cab?

 

Thanks for looking.

Last edited by Pingman
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Originally Posted by John Sethian:

Something about the chemical reaction between Goo and ACC is unbelievable.

 

I agree with your suggestion of ACC and Goo and this would be my first choice as well.  But I think the reaction is mechanical.  Think interlocking irregular particles with an intimately bonded cushioning layer between them.  Gives both high strength and impact resistance.

I think it may be both chemical and mechanical.  The accelerated bonding aspect tends to indicate that there is some sort of chemical interaction with the mechanical end result of high strength and impact resistance........not withstanding intimacy issues,

Not wanting to go toe to toe with a chemist, but I am not sure about anything accelerated. I base that as I use the slow setting ACC, ZAP-A-GAP.   I still think its the wicking and subsequent hardening of the CA into the open lacy network of the Goo.  But it could be chemical as well.

 

 

Ed, this is what I do:

 

Apply Goo to one part. Attach the other part, and immediately pull apart. Wait 2 minutes.  Apply ZAP-A-GAP to one part. Push pieces together. You have about 10 seconds to align

Originally Posted by Ed Kelly:

What is the procedure of using ACC and Goo?  What goes where and when?

Thanks,

Ed

To add to John's directions, if one surface is at all porous, make sure that you put the Goo on that side - thin film is all you need.  I don't always put the 2 parts together and separate them as John directs, but it probably helps.

 

The chemical part that I noted is that I use basically the same glue as John, albeit medium viscosity (all that I do use), and find that it sets up far faster than w/o the Goo.  I've had to "carve" a few things apart that I misaligned being too slow.  Someday I'll track down an adhesives chemist or 2 and get into this sticky business....

Reminds me to get some more CA this weekend - it's taken ~2 years, but I'm getting close to running another bottle down to empty.

Wow! How in blazes do you keep your CA for two years?! I open a container and in two months, it's as hard as a rock.

 

I'll have to try the Goo and CA trick for the brass parts that are gradually falling off of my brass engines. Yes, solder would be better, and I'll probably do that. However, the original builder elected to use some kind of cement that has essentially crystallized.

 

Neil

Last edited by GTW

I have stumbled on an unusual source for CA.  I buy the original brand Super Glue (remember the TV adds with the guy's hardhat glued to the crane!) from my local dollar store, Dollar General.  I get two 1 oz bottles for a buck!  The most amazing thing is that this is the best CA I've ever used!  It is medium thickness.  In the off occasion that a bottle dries out, I'm out 50 cent! 

Store your CA in the freezer, it will last a lot longer, e.g. years...
 
Scott K.
Austin, TX
 
Originally Posted by GTW:

Wow! How in blazes do you keep your CA for two years?! I open a container and in two months, it's as hard as a rock.

 

I'll have to try the Goo and CA trick for the brass parts that are gradually falling off of my brass engines. Yes, solder would be better, and I'll probably do that. However, the original builder elected to use some kind of cement that has essentially crystallized.

 

Neil

 

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
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