Best Glue for Windows in Structures?

Model airplane canopy glue.

Canopy glue. Use sparingly. Dries clear.

Pete

It’s not cheap. I like Liquid PSA from Micro Mark. Looks a lot like Elmers white or Canopy Glue when you brush it on. Walk away and let it dry. It sets up tacky. When you add the glazing. Nothing oozes out. One bottle goes a long ways.

Don't know if it's the best, but I use Testors Clear Parts Cement and Window Maker.

Ray,  As mentioned above canopy glue is made for it.  If not available and you don't have many windows, Scotch tape will do the job.  Or masking tape if you are looking for a window shade in that window.  John in Lansing, ILL

Thank you all for the replies, I will get  some  Canopy glue.  

I use formula 550 canopy glue.

I would recommend that you use 3M Matte Finish Magic Tape. Just use the tape on the corners of the plastic.

This is what works in my train room, No glue mess and no waiting time for the glue to dry.

Hope this helps: Gary

I had heard a lot of good things about Canopy Glue and this project had a lot of windows so gave it a try, you can see how it dries clear but try to keep it off the part that shows anyway.

I held the with painters tape and it can be removed later

Bottom line is I like it, easy to use, not very messy, am using in other applications now.

I've recently found another good use for canopy glue.  If I have decals that are not adhering well to a plastic or wood surface, I dilute a few drops of canopy glue and brush it over the decals while still wet. I haven't tried this with large decals, but have used this when numbering locomotives and caboose letterboards one character at a time.

A few years ago I was looking to patch a couple of small holes in a gutter and found OSI GUTTERSEAL GS121 in Lowes I have since found numerous other uses for it. It is a clear vinyl glue which thins with mineral spirits I have used it to glue acetate for windows in buildings as well as passenger cars and windshields in model autos. Recently I glued a gear box cover, with the clear gutter patch, which I made for an old Lionel 18000 PRR B6 switcher so I could run the Pinion gear on the motor shaft and the spur on the main drive shaft in an oil bath. I turned the loco upside down for a day to test for leaks before mounting the ERR board so far good.  One thing I like about this glue/sealant is it never completely dries out and If you want to remove parts held together with it a sharp edge to pry it loose is all it takes. Then you can rub off what remains with your finger.  It will ball up as you rub and give a point to pull the rest off. For most uses I thin it with mineral spirits. You can use it as a contact cement by painting both surfaces and allowing to dry five minutes or so before mating the parts.  You can glue windshields and canopy's with the thinned version.  When I was a kid I glued many a canopy on with karo syrup after ruining one with plastic cement.  Applied with a toothpick and allowed to sit for several days it holds quite well and if you get it anywhere you don't want you just wipe off the excess with a wet tissue. If you tie your planes to a string stretched across the room near the ceiling the ants can't get to them. The gutterseal comes in clear, white and black.   j

Gil in Oregon posted:

I've recently found another good use for canopy glue.  If I have decals that are not adhering well to a plastic or wood surface, I dilute a few drops of canopy glue and brush it over the decals while still wet. I haven't tried this with large decals, but have used this when numbering locomotives and caboose letterboards one character at a time.

Now that is interesting!