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What is the best way to build realistic roads? Getting back into the hobby again and i've never taken the time to build a realistic scale road before.

I need to make city streets for baltimore and manhattan along with rural and small town roads in pennsylvania/maryland.

I'm modelling the Northeast Corridor in the modern day

Youtube links for step-by-step instructions and replying with pictures/video would be greatly appreciated!

Last edited by John m 43
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On my N gauge layout I used Woodland Scenics Smooth-It. Here is a link. They also have some videos on there.

https://woodlandscenics.woodla...com/show/item/ST1452

I colored the roadway with Woodland Scenics Top Coat Asphalt.

https://woodlandscenics.woodla...com/show/item/ST1453

After the lines were installed, I added some cracks and potholes then weathered everything with an air brush.

2013-04-18 07.30.282013-04-18 07.31.2820210603_07281020210603_07281820210603_07283120210603_072841

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For paved roads I used to use fine sand glued down then used ink or diluted paint to color it, it worked pretty well.

In a city area you have to ask yourself what kind of road surface, paving, belgian block, concrete? In a city area the biggest thing is to have roads with curbs. One of the more fun things I recall doing was having a city street where I simulated the 'asphault' had worn away and you saw the belgian block underneath, quite common in some sections of NYC.

For belgian block I did it the hard way, I poured plaster and then I carved it (belgian block is not uniform, which actually made it easier,but still was a chore). I colored it using a wash of thinly diluted gray ink and then I used black ink in an old fashioned fountain pen to put in black between the 'stones'.

Concrete I used styrene sheet sprayed with concrete colored paint, and I carved expansion joints in it that I used a darker color to make them visible.

I am showing my age, I remember an article in MRR when I was a teenager when someone advocated using furnace cement. Ended up being somewhat controversial because all these people later wrote in saying that it could corrode rails if used in a grade crossing.

@NJCJOE posted:

On my N gauge layout I used Woodland Scenics Smooth-It. Here is a link. They also have some videos on there.

https://woodlandscenics.woodla...com/show/item/ST1452

I colored the roadway with Woodland Scenics Top Coat Asphalt.

https://woodlandscenics.woodla...com/show/item/ST1453

After the lines were installed, I added some cracks andpotholes  then weathered everything with an air brush.

20210603_072831

NJCJoe,

Do you happen to have lived in Michigan?   Potholes are our states signature feature.  However ours are much larger and deeper.  In some places the front end of your car may disappear.

Blowouts are a common sight during the late winter and early spring along the roadways due to our potholes.

Last edited by Allegheny
@NJCJOE posted:

On my N gauge layout I used Woodland Scenics Smooth-It. Here is a link. They also have some videos on there.

https://woodlandscenics.woodla...com/show/item/ST1452

I colored the roadway with Woodland Scenics Top Coat Asphalt.

https://woodlandscenics.woodla...com/show/item/ST1453

After the lines were installed, I added some cracks and potholes then weathered everything with an air brush.

2013-04-18 07.30.282013-04-18 07.31.2820210603_07281020210603_07281820210603_07283120210603_072841

Those look incredible! Would this translate to O Scale well? Also what air brush/paint types did you use for weathering?

I'll tell you what not to. I used green foam with strathmore thick art paper glued to it. I painted the road surface onto the board and then used 3M 77 Spray Glue to hold them together. It looked great until it didn't. The roads started delaminating after about a year. I then spent the next four trying to re-glue the edges along the curbs that were almost completely detached. We then had a ceiling leak from the failing dishwasher on the floor above and the roads buckled even more. I had to resurface 6 feet of city street, again with the strathmore, but used Liquid Nails construction adhesive to hold it down. So far it's working. If I were to do it again, and I'm not planning to, I'd paint the streets directly on the green foam or use something more substantial like thin Masonite as the road surface. For country roads I've been using acrylic-based tile grout tinted to a good asphalt color with black acrylic craft paint. Looks good and wears like iron.

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