Bridge/ gate. Anyone do this yet?

I am preparing a similar layout and intend to do something similar - but I am leaning toward a bridge that raises instead of swings. It seems to me that i will be able to bring it down into place and make it more stable as a lift out than a swing, but I am open to the ideas that come out here. 

The bridge in the club layout was in HO, so only a 2x4 wide, not almost 8". 

Im also thinking that a lift out would be the way to go, but then how to reconnect electricity every time?

One of the coolest bridge/gate apparatus I ever saw was on a auto mechanic's layout.  The bridge raised to let you into the center of the layout.  The bridge was attached to a V8 engine flywheel gear that was cut down and mounted under it.  A geared down 12V DC motor was used to actuate the bridge. 

 The end without the hinge can be cut at a shallow angle. The track would have to be cut at an angle also, thus creating a wedge keeping the legs of the U in place. An old style window latch on the far left hand side will keep it in place and tight. 

Like this ?

I handled a two level track using a two types of hinge movements, door type swing bridge and a lift-up bridge.

Nice job Joe !!

Clem k

I like the lift up bridge...can you show some pics of both ends to show how you hinged it and how the end is secured when it comes down into place? Thanks!

See Runner and Guest Access Bridges

 Here are 3 of the access bridges with Lionel's Lift Bridge.  One bridge swings, one lifts out, and one lifts at one end.

Also see Access Bridges used as Switches .

Nice bridges Clem and Joe!

so the orange section at the very bottom is going to be my bridge. It is roughly 8" wide and I want it almost right up against the edge of the table, the blue straight line. It will be hinged on the inner side, and I think, because of the width, I'm going to have to cut angles or adjust the table?

Mo985, with that long a span this swing bridge can easily be adapted by using 2 swing bridges similar to the one below.  Just add one fold down leg or leg with caster.  The center joint angles can be designed as required.

Bridge base is 3/4" plywood.  Sides are 1/4" and can be anything.

This door hinge use is heavy enough for single or double track.

CAUTION, with an 8' span room humidity is critical.  My Run Room is dry in the winter and humid in the summer causing significant contraction and expansion in the tables.  Winter causes gaps and summer causes tight fits.

My bridge is 8 inches wide, and the run will only be 55-60 inches long. I am trying to get what you have, although your "bridge" is roughly 3 inches wide.

Could you get a pic of the end where they meet up? the other side of the hinged end?

My bridge connections are different for the upper and lower bridges.

The upper bridge has a hinge, with a hinge point ABOVE the rail head one end:

The other end simply drops in between a groove in the wood that holds the ties such that the bridge rails align with the approach rails and the rail heads are level. I aligned and leveled the rails, then screwed (or glued) everything in place:

The lower bridge has two door hinges on one side, typical to other designs in this thread:

The bridge closes like a door. the other end of the bridge, clicks into place and is held by a small piece of wood that acts like a latch. You have to lift the bridge upwards about 1/4" to clear the latch, then let the bridge support beam (wood) slip downwards into the groove:

The bridge was built and hinged in place and connected on both sides. I laid the track and aligned the bridge track with the approach tracks. Once all was aligned and secured with screws, I cut the bridge and track near the connection point, (at an angle, so it would close without binding), then added the small keeper piece to hold the track in alignment.

The bridge track support structure, placed in alignment with the track. The bridge structure was then aligned to this track support piece to ensure proper fitting at both ends.

I then glued the bridge to the track support structure. After drying, the bridge was put in place and connected at both ends. The hinged end was a 1/2" thick plywood piece (like a door) hinged to the layout table, allowing the bridge to be screwed onto the "door".  The other end of the track support piece was screwed to the layout structure. The track was added and cut to fit. After securing the Atlas track to the bridge, I cut both the track support piece and the track at an angle, so the bridge could open without pinching the track.

The same view, with track:

Close up view of bridge almost closed, and closed:

Looking at all this great pics and work has just got me thinking ( boy is that ever dangerous) anyway plans are in effect for next spring to convert our garage which will never house our truck as truck is to long and our house really doesn't have any where for a train layout for me into a train room now that will give me about 14' x 17' to section a small area for a work bench and my tools ( I think 4' x 10' should be enough) leaving me about 13' x 14' for train area. doing a round the room with a lift gate into the center does make sense instead of trying to fill whole room and have to craw under with pop up holes to get to things in the far back. I could have control central in the center that would be great. and as I get older be easier to get to things also. (60 now so need to look at the years coming up) 

Thanks for such a great topic it opened my eyes to a better way of going about my next layout why I never thought of it before who knows

Already plan for heat/air conditioning and dehumidifier for in there to try and keep it at the same level of moisture and temperature year round.  

See middle of page, Access Bridges used as Switches , for close up photos of the open end.