bridge rectifiers ordering from digital which one?

 

This is a photo previously posted by grj with the individual components identified.  HTH.

 

The 22uh choke is only included to prevent interference with the DCS signal; omit it for conventional or TMCC/Legacy operators.

 

Good luck with soldering such small components; I chose to go with the module approach to minimize soldering.

are you building the LED driver?

 

Here are the parts for the LED driver. What is missing is a PTC resettable fuse that is in series between the track pick-up\roller hot wires and the driver for short protection for the circuit.

You have to get the LED driver from Mouser. may as well put the choke in.

 

PTC

220uf capacitor (he changed it to this one from the photo)

1N4003 Diode

CL2N3-G

22uh choke

 

Use the picture posted to connect. You will need a holder to solder these small components together.

 

If you are working on a different project, you may need a different rectifier.

here's a 50v 1.5A there are different packages to fit your project. The DF is a surface mount

moonman, thanks for your help.  im going to get a bunch of these components.  when I first searched for these.  so many different types.  I really appreciate it! 

 

I have a pair of helping hands and a good adjustable soldering iron, rosin core solder and flux.  I built flickering LED setups before.  Soldering can be a pita!  but im ok with it. 

As long as you want to drive LED's. A bridge rectifier for other stuff would\may need a higher amperage and perhaps a different package.

 

The CL2N3-G drives the led's in this setup. I use it for my lighted cars and buildings. Connect the led's in series. You can run quite a few with this driver.

 

good luck! Thank gunrunnerjohn for the circuit.

Now in johns picture.  it does not show that bridge rectifier, unless he used the surface mount and its under he capacitor.  cannot see that.  I have a hand drawn sketch from the J&C studios setup. this is an easy follow through setup.  but, no diode shown.  do we need a diode in this?  the choke for DCS. yes.  there is no LED driver shown on this diagram  (CL2N3-6)  they have a 1000- ohm 1/2 watt resistor before the LED strip to dim them.

Chris, I don't use a bridge rectifier, I use a diode.  It's the black part with the white stripe, the 1N4003.

 

I find that the 20ma total current form this circuit lights 15" or 18" passenger cars to a nice brightness with a full length LED strip.  I won't want the strips at anything like the full intensity, that looks ridiculous to me it's so bright!  If you want more light intensity from my circuit, you can just add another CL2N3-G in parallel with the existing one, you get twice the current.

 

If you want adjustable intensity, this is the circuit I use on my lighting modules.  You could also use a simple diode with this one if you're always running at 17-18 volts track voltage.

 

 

 

Chris,

 

I use the DF02M Bridge Rectifier for all of my LED projects. To date, not one has failed. Most recently, I have been using the DF02M for converting passenger car lighting to LEDs using John's circuit.

 

The DF02M is rated for a continuous rectified 1Adc output, a surge current up to 50A, and 200V. It has a very small envelope and it is inexpensive.

 

ok, im going with Johns original circuit as pictured above. simple and compact. ordered the 22uh choke, ln4003 diode, 220 uf capacitor. polyswitch.  and the CL2N3-G driver.  Im doing 10 cars, so I got 10 of each. 

 

john, in the picture. the middle tab of the CL2N3-G.  that goes to the (-) side of theLED strip and the entab goes to the (+) side.  I can see the other end tab of the CL2N3-G driver attaches to the capacitor diode connection. 

 

thanks for the advice guys.  still waiting for the LED reels, so maybe the time the components get here from mouser and digikey, I'll have the strips in hand. 

 

Chris

Supertex, the original mfr of the CL2 chip, was acquired by Microchip.  DigiKey carries Microchip parts so you might be able to get all parts from DigiKey.  In my experience DigiKey shipping is cheaper than Mouser but your mileage may vary.

 

http://www.digikey.com/product...G/CL2N3-G-ND/4902353

 

Most guys are finding the fixed-current (20 millamps) from the CL2 is too bright with the LED strips. But if you're committed to the CL2 then add a 2 cent resistor across the + and - connections on the strip to divert (shunt) some current from the LEDs.  For example, a 1000 ohm (1K) 1/4 Watt resistor will cut the brightness about in half.

Stan beat me to it.  I have added the resistor for some cases, it's a very easy adjustment for the light level.  Pretty amazing when you think it takes 1/3 or an amp or more to light them with incandescent bulbs, and 20ma is too bright with LEDs!

 

guys.  you think I should add in the 1000 Ohm 1/4 watt resistor then?

 

Dang!  when I plugged in the number in digikey earlier, it did not show up. hmm.  oh well, I placed the order with mouser for that and the other stuff with digikey.  shipping was 3 something for each company.

 

If there's a Radio Shack still open for business in your area I see you can get a 5-pack of 1000 ohm, 1/4W resistors for $1.49.  This will allow you to experiment with lowering brightness. 

 

http://www.radioshack.com/1k-o...21.html#.VPTDg46rXSg

 

That is, you can combine two 1000-ohm resistors (in parallel or in series) to "make" a 500 ohm or a 2000 ohm resistor.  Between 500, 1000, and 2000 ohms, you should be able to pick a suitable resistor value before incurring the shipping cost of another order.

 

Or, resistors are about 2 cents on eBay.  Here's 50 for 99 cents with free shipping if you can wait a few weeks.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/50-x-R...;hash=item3cb95627fc

 

Note that the resistor can be attached the little solder-pads on the strip itself essentially after-the-fact so to speak.  In other words you can do virtually all the soldering/assembly work for your 10 circuit without regard for brightness.  And then attach the resistor (if needed) later without having to un-do or rework the fruits of your labor.

 

 

heck, Ill run up to Radio shack.  mine is still open.  I think.....  lol.  ill go by tonight.  that is much better doing it that way.

 

thanks stan

You can tack on markers to the strip if you so desire.  Note that if you were to use spots on the strip, you'd have to have the same type of LED as is used on the strips, or you'd get undesirable results.

 

What I do is just power the markers from the end of the strip connections and adjust the series resistor for the proper brightness.  I usually end up using about a 2k resistor for two series red LED's, but YMMV.  Every set of solder pads on the strips has the supply voltage on them, so you can tap in anywhere.

 

 

Just a thought here, but if you plan to do more of these kinds of projects, you might want to get an assortment pack of 1/4 and 1/2 watt resistors. Radio Shack used to have these that had quite a few of the most common resistor values in an assortment pack. Then you could get extras of the ones you need the most of. Sometimes it's handy to have several different values on hand when trying to get something just the way you want it.

Thanks for the update, the more I can get from Digi-Key the better. They are a great place to order from. Might just be my favorite place to order from.

I used John's lighting module for a caboose, and added the Tomar Marker lights using the supplied 2200 resistor in series with each marker. Soldered them to the end of the LED strip at the same end the power leads are connected.

 

 

and yes the lighting module still works after being covered in black paint

I also ordered John's circuits from Henning's Trains, it sure beat having to build my own.

LaidOffSick did a great video on the install of this in his caboose on YouTube, check it out. It'll be good research.

As for the solder and the flux; it's overkill. Skip the flux. If you're using a rosin core solder, it should be plenty strong to solder to fresh wire and components. Over application of flux runs the risk of leaving flux on the components that has not been deactivated.

Thanks,
Mario

I'd listen to Mario, I have it on good authority that he knows a thing or two about solder.

 

 

The output of the CL-2 goes to the + lead of the LED strip, the - lead of the LED strip connects to the wheels and the negative side of the capacitor.

 

 

thanks a bunch john.  I got the poly switch to place between the rollers too.    your setup can power how many leds on the strip? 

oh and the supertex has 3 prongs.  cut the middle off?  use the 2 ends?

Dear Chris

 

Yes, you cut the middle prong off on the supertex.  Watch the position of the supertex in the diagram. The first one I made I did it backward and it did not work. I went back and resolder it the in the correct position and it worked like champ every time. It is not clear in the diagram but the unsolder lead of the supertex goes to the  positive side of the led strip. The neg side led strip get the neg side of the cap and one of the wires that supply AC power from the track. Dry fit the led strip into position and then cut it from the led roll.  TIP: Pretin the copper circles on the led strip before you install the strip on the roof. Then install the GRJ special to the Led and then install the whole assembly to the roof of the car. If you are install these on modern car the roof is made of plastic.  A hot soldering iron and plastic do not mix very well.

I solder up the whole affair on the bench and then stick it to the roof of the car with hot glue. As Kris says, soldering inside the car is usually asking for trouble.

 

As far as what number of LED's you can power, pretty much any number.  The longer the strip, the less brightness each LED will have.  I find that 20ma does an 18" car very well, if anything it might be a bit bright.