building kitbash

I used a small band saw.  Slower speed blades seem to work better.
I then finished the cut with a small file/rasp.
Pictured cut was from one solid wall/brick side piece. Also the height has been altered.

I figured the fine tooth band saw would be the best bet after I put some more thought into it.

AmeriTowne Shelf Supports... I didn't see those in the catalog...

Nice work!

Rogerpete:

I use a table saw to cut all plastic (Plastruct / OGR / etc.). I use a carbide tip laminate blade instead of a plywood blade. Buy one with as many teeth as you can. Also don't go too slow or you will end up pushing melting plastic ahead of the cut.

I have a bandsaw never had much luck with it mostly because I don't think I set it up correctly.

If you have a table saw it may behoove you to build a crosscut sled. The sled makes cutting small parts much easier.

Joe

This subject comes up from time to time. 

I use a 48-tooth carbide 5-1/2" blade in my Hegner moldeler's circular saw.  It cuts like butter through Ameritowne walls.  Consumes only a 1/16" kerf.

That said, I've also used my Dewalt commercial 12" table saw with carbide blades of at least 80 teeth.  Many, many years ago one of our community education programs had a chap from a local plastics products firm sponsor a class on making items from clear acrylic, Plexiglas, Lucite, etc..  He taught us all sorts of cutting, forming, bonding, finishing techniques....albeit in an abbreviated (for time/expense) fashion.  The class was held in the woodshop of a local high school.

Anyhow, in cutting sheet plastic on a table saw his advice was fairly simple:

1. Highest possible tooth-count carbide tipped blade

2. SHARP blade  (he recommended a 'dedicated' blade, if possible)

3. Highest spindle speed (if a variable speed saw)

4. True-running blade (no side-to-side wobble)

4. A stock feed not too slow, not too fast. 

The stock feed rate was the 'getting-the-feel' part of the process.  If you go too slow, even with a high tooth count, you will tend to overheat the plastic, causing some chip melting.  Removing melted chips that have bonded to the out-surface of the cut can cause edge damage in itself.

Feeding the stock too fast, of course, will risk excessive out-surface chipping....taking too big of a bite, even with a high tooth count and high spindle speed.

But, it's an easy, quick learning curve.  He had us cut sheet stock of 3/32" and 1/4" for practice, and you could tell right away what the 'optimum' feed speed range should be....it definitely 'felt' comfortable.

Well, that's what I've found when cutting either injection molded plastic walls (Ameritowne, Plasticville, et al) or resin-cast walls (Korber, BJ Traction, et al)

I don't have a bandsaw.  I know a lot of guys who have responded to this question on prior threads use a bandsaw and have success.  So that may be a viable option, but I can't comment further.

So, FWIW, that's what I do.  Works for me.

KD

Just came in from the shop. Did all my cuts with a band saw, without issue, and like a good Chinese restaurant, "Done in 10 minute."

Seems I may have been over thinking it...

roger pete

Wold like to see photos of the finished product

Seems like a lot of that goes on,