Caboose Smoke Units

Just my opinion but, I would much rather have correct details AND illuminated rear marker lamps than a stupid smoke unit, which tends to melt the plastic body anyway.

Probably safe to assume that the simplest method to increase smoke volume would be to install a fan driven unit.  Any of those available should produce a very convincing chimney fire effect.

 

Don't try to supercharge the existing unit and be wary of using the unit under command control voltages.  We of the Salvador Dali smoking caboose society know of what we speak.

 

 

Bruce

keep in mind that these smoke units are different than those in engines. They are not meant to pour out smoke like an engine. At best you will only see a wisp and thats while standing still.

romiller

One thing to keep in mind, as Hot Water mentions, is that you need to be cautious about letting that smoke unit get too hot.  If you run your trains on command control, your track voltage is at "full on" and the smoke unit will heat up.  A few manufacturers have placed a switch under the car to choose between Command and conventional.  But most manufacturers also put a switch under the car to just turn the **** thing off.  That's the position that I usually have set on my cabeese.  I don't want to risk damaging the car, just to add a little more smoke to the train room.

 

Paul Fischer

As suggested above, one of the Lionel fan-driven smoke units ought to do the trick.

 

A 2-wire thermal switch might help with the overheating issue by cutting power when the trip-temperature is reached...then resets and re-applies power after the temp drops below the (lower) reset-temp.  You'd have to fiddle a bit choosing the right cut-out temp and where to mount it.  Note the printed trip-temp on this family of switches in 5 degree increments:

 

 

If you are handy with DIY electronics installation and there's space, a cycle-timer module (under $10 on eBay) could turn the smoke unit on and off every so often.  Or a voltage regulator module (under $5 on eBay) could limit the voltage to the smoke unit to, say, 14V or whatever keeps the unit from overheating.  Or a power-resistor (about $1 on eBay) could limit the current to the smoke unit.

 

And if this is for public viewing, for a conversation-starter how about bacon-scented or similar JT Megasteam smoke fluid.  That would be the conductor cooking breakfast.

 

I've put the MTH HO fan driven smoke unit in a couple of these, I use a small DC power supply set at around 5V, three diodes to drop the motor voltage to about 3V, and it smokes treat and doesn't get nearly hot enough to melt anything.  Just keep it supplied with smoke fluid and you're all set.

 

Hot Water you are so correct. Many experienced in the hobby know this. No one ever listens to the voice of experience.

Of course some like that feature. Me I could do without it. First thing I do is make sure the thing is turned off. Careful modifying it, like others have said many nice caboose' have been damaged by the heat.

While the smoke unit is certainly not necessary, it's quite possible to solve the problem of any melting.  I'd like to have the smoke and all the other details.

 

This is hysterical! I destroyed a beautiful scale K-Line Pennsy caboose years ago. This at least eases the pain of that faux pas!

Part number?

Is that the AA-1600000

That would be the one Chuck.

 

+1 and I'm not much of a person that wants 100% accuracy to the prototype. I've had plenty of smoking cabooses over the years. All either don't smoke well or not at all and ALL have been damaged by the shell melting/warping from the heat. 

Hmmm...thanks!

The cheaper method is to line the interior plastic around the smoke unit with aluminum foil. The foil will act as a heat sink and protect the plastic body.

I like the fan I think...

I've tried that, it helps, but it isn't a perfect solution.  I got one from a guy to fix with a melted spot started, and he had used tinfoil as you state, still got too hot.