Cannot get PS3 RTR Steam Engine to Run

Hi sounds like it might need to have a Asc tech look at your engine ! are you sure you plugged in the drawbar connector all the way, might be your only problem or you might need the drawbar replaced n or repaired ! what is your engine item number 20- or 30 - depending weather premier or Railking

Alan

Since you're getting Whistle and Bell to respond to Z-4000 button presses, it's likely the W-B-B-B-B-B timing is the issue.  Like the Goldilocks children's story, the timing has to be just right!

@PaulG posted:

I've tried it with voltage applied (18V) and also at no voltage (Z4000 powered on but the throttle at zero position).

have you tried with the voltage lower (12 volts or less) ?

Why would it work at 0 voltage?

Hmmm, I post and then Stans post appears? Forum slow today?

Thanks for all the responses... I'll try to answer questions in the order I see them.

As far as the drawbar, I have reseated it several times. As I mentioned, the engine headlight works fine so we do have a good drawbar connection (hopefully). The engine is a RTR 30-4208-1E.

I have done the W-B-B-B-B-B multiple times at various voltages (22V, 18V, 14V,12V) without any response.

I guess I'll have to take it to the local train shop and see if he can figure out what's wrong.

Thanks again for all the responses!

Paul,

MTH says the 30-4208-1 is a PS2 set not PS3.  I have had issues with weak batteries on PS2s to the point everything works but the engine will not move. Replacing the battery with a BCR solves the problem. You may want to confirm it is a PS3 as you wrote above.

I have several age ranges of PS3 engines. I find some of these engines (particularly the older ones) need up to 60 seconds to build enough voltage in charging the super capacitor in order to run. The newer ones seem ready to go. In conventional, if the engine restarts when you hit the direction button, it needs more time to build voltage - most other things work. 

I have installed BCRs in all my PS1 and PS2 engines. The charge time delay does not seem to be related to the 9v (8.4v) or 5v (5v and 3v) BCRs, but related to the boards on the engines. (People use several different voltages when referring to these batteries - lots of info on the forums.)

I have never had to do a factory reset on an MTH engine when trying to run conventional.  However RTR sets need a "0" engine setting in order to run through the commander - otherwise nothing - regardless of transformer. 

I really suspect you have a PS2 engine and the battery is weak.

Hope this helps.

while it's playing the sounds how long do the sounds play when you power down should be around 7 to 10 seconds before sounds cut off if sounds die immediately your battery is DEAD try another good battery !

Alan

hmm, yeap. this one is PS2

30-4208-1 | MTH ELECTRIC TRAINS (mthtrains.com)

@PaulG posted:

...

I guess I'll have to take it to the local train shop and see if he can figure out what's wrong.

...

Well, be sure to also take your Z4000.  Since the W and B buttons apparently work for triggering just the Whistle and Bell, I suppose there could be something going on with rapid sequences of the W and B patterns.  Can you get any of the sequences to do anything?  For example, can you fire the rear coupler with B-W-W-W or toggle speed control function with W-B-B?  The former will trigger the coupler clank sound even if your engine doesn't have a rear-coupler mechanism on the tender.  The latter should give you the double-toot acknowledgement.

You don't need a working battery to get the double-toot acknowledgement sound in response to a W-B sequence that performs some action.

If you haven't already thrown in the towel, if you have some incandescent (not LED) passenger cars, put them on the track when messing with the W-B combo sequences.  It's a long-shot and probably will not change anything (especially with the Z-4000), but without descending into techno-babble increasing the load on the track can sometimes affect conventional W-B behavior.  I only suggest this as it should only take a minute or two to see if there's a difference.

Thanks for the latest responses... I verified that the box indicates PS3 but looking at the manual that came with the engine (see image), it says (3V PS3) on the front cover.  I would have thought PS3 would be PS3, but the 3V throws me.  I'll have to open the tender to see if there is a battery in it or not.  If there is, I'll have to order a PS2 BCR.  However, if it has a bad battery, why would the whistle, bell and all the yard sounds work?  I'll let you know what I find tomorrow.

You may have the later set with PS3. I would have guessed that MTH had changed the set number to distinguish it from the older ps2.

I bought the grandkids the same set. I just don't remember the number. I had to replace the engine after it got broken.

I'm pretty sure the engine has a separate boiler board that controls the motor, etc. If that loses contact with the other board, the engine won't move.

So you still may have a tether issue. (Check both ends of the tether for good connection. The engine side can become unplugged I think?)

Could be still scrambled. Etc.

Paul - found your manual on-line. It does say it is PS3 and uses the supercapacitor - not a battery.

I am just puzzled why the MTH web site shows that number as being a PS2, but your box is showing PS3. If it is PS3 then it is not the battery.  Did you buy this set new or used? Wondering if something got switched around. If it is PS3 - I agree with the others it is worth looking at the draw bar, I find them to be rather finicky.

That set has its own brick transformer and the remote commander - have you tried those  instead of your Z4000 just to see if there is any difference?   

Regarding my experience with low but not dead batteries, I think the PS2 sound boards can get by with a lower voltage than the engine boards. I had a couple of engines which would start up but not run, even with extended time on a powered track trying to charge the battery. After frying a board on a RailKing Steamer, I now replace the battery on any used PS2 engine before even putting it on the tracks. These batteries are pushing 10 plus year old, not worth risking a $300 repair job. But the techs on OGR can better answer that question.   

Well, I checked the tethers at both ends and they are well connected.  Went through the conventional reset procedure several times at different voltage settings on the transformer... to no avail!  I have grandkids this week so I'll run another engine for them  None of the "PS1" engines have any problem... Just the one PS3 I have.  I guess I'll run it over to my local train shop and have him try it on his track.  Thanks for all the help and responses... This forum is the place to be!

@ScoutingDad posted:

I am just puzzled why the MTH web site shows that number as being a PS2, but your box is showing PS3. If it is PS3 then it is not the battery.  Did you buy this set new or used? Wondering if something got switched around. If it is PS3 - I agree with the others it is worth looking at the draw bar, I find them to be rather finicky.

There were items that got released with the very first PS3 boards inside. I believe some of the packaging still said PS2. Some is old catalog listings.

So I'd be looking at the release dates closely for a clue on this.