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I'm continuing to build structures for my friend, David Stewart's, O scale 2 rail layout. Here is the beginnings of an entire city block, all scratch built. Basic materials are .040, .060, and .080 sheet styrene and JTT brick sheets. Throw in some Grandt Line window and door castings, and some Evergreen styrene strip stock and you have a party! I use various solvents and 3M spray glue for construction. The base is hardboard laminated with styrene and carved to simulate sidewalks and curbs. I made several foam board mock ups to test sizes and placement before I transitioned to final construction.

 

Core 1core 2core 3Front 2Front1Block 1

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Last edited by Rick Bacon
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Rick, You are doing a great job!!  The buildings will look great on David's layout.

As an aside, visiting David's A&O Railroad Website back in about 2011 piqued my interest in O scale.  At the time, I was about 55, and my HO trains were looking too small with aging eyes, and the details were getting too small for arthritic hands.  Since I do not have much space, (I finally got an 11 x 11 room once our last daughter got married and moved out), I ended up opting for 3-rail O Gauge.  Nevertheless, David's description and photographs sold me on opting for a larger scale than HO.

The store fronts are coming along. I think what I’m going to do is treat the whole lower floor interior and building front as a “drawer”. This way I can complete the interior details and solidly mount the front. A simple track or guide will hold the completed “drawer” and keep everything in alignment. The idea is that I can just slide the “cassette-like drawers” into the main structure. We’ll see how it goes…

 The front of the Union Hall is based on two Grandt Line windows and a door minus its frame. I used my trusty .040 styrene sheet to fill out the front. Notice that the window castings are installed backwards. When I add the brick layer, I overlap the exposed flange of the window casting and butt the brick right up to the window frame. I my eye, this makes a decent masonry type window that is flush to the outside surface of the wall.  Styrene strips are shaped to simulate stonework that matches the rest of the structure and help hide joints.

 The Pharmacy building front uses the same “cassette drawer” idea. For this front, I scratch built a more modern business door from styrene strip. I set the doorway to one side to avoid a repeating pattern along the entire row of buildings. Avoiding patterns (or equal balance, symmetry, and/or parallel lines) can improve the realism in a scene. This is a technique I first read about when I was a kid, in Shepard Paine’s armor and diorama modeling books. Shep Paine was the guy behind all of the completed models on the box covers for model kits from Monogram Models (planes, boats, and tanks) back in the 70s and 80s. He was a master of visual art, and authored 3 Kalmbach books about his techniques. After I wore out the copies at the library, I bought my own!

 I also decided to make this front more of a set in with the door and window recessed into the structure. This required extra brickwork to finish the inset. Under the window, I repeated the 4 brick diamond detail to visually tie the store front to the top of the structure ( I forgot to take of picture of this!). It is a small detail, but I think it adds some more believable texture to my little story!

Union hall frontPharm front

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This past weekend I put my efforts into the interior of the lumber yard office/hardware store. I combined some rudimentary 3D shapes for counters and shelves with a collection of photo textures to fill the interior. The photo textures are pictures and patterns I found on the web that I re-configured, re-colored, and scaled. I print these in full color on gloss photo paper using my desk jet printer. The 3D shapes are simple styrene shapes or forms made from scrap .020 styrene sheet. These are spray painted with a flat dark brown. The photo textures are cut out and trimmed to size and glued with spray glue.

 

I fit everything as I went, continuously check sight lines to ensure everything looked right. An easy way to do this is to take cell phone pictures as I go and study these shots looking for mistakes or omissions. During final assembly, I’ll add a few select and strategically placed 3D details such as clutter on the counter top to solidify the scene. Also, if I keep up this level of “texture” across the entire Mt Union scene, I hope most viewers will be too busy to find and thin spots in the details!

 

LY inside

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Last edited by Rick Bacon

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